Our usual “go-to’s” when it comes to Canberra walks are the ones with the big views or crazy rock formations, neither of which can be found on The Settlers Track. That’s probably why it took us so long to get round to it, but I’m really glad that we finally did. The walk takes you to three historic pioneers huts, one of which you can actually spend the night in!
You can look around all the huts and see how people lived back in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. The fact you can actually stay in one of the more remote huts, complete with fireplace and old rickety furniture, makes it even more special.
You’ll also encounter hundreds upon hundreds of kangaroos who will entertain you between huts. Here’s everything you need to know about The Settlers Track.
The Settlers Track
The stats
Distance: 9km circuit
Elevation gain: 170m
Difficulty: Easy
Summary: The Settlers Track has two options when it comes to length, a 6km and a 9km circuit. Both loops are on a well maintained path, with the only difficulty being a bit of boggy terrain after heavy rain. There are a couple of very short hills, but the majority of the walk is flat. Large parts of the track are exposed to the sun, though there are bushy sections to give you a break.
The walk between the huts is relatively samey, as it’s a traditional bush walk as opposed to something with lots to see along the way, but it’s a pretty trail nevertheless.
The track is signposted with wooden markers and is generally very easy to follow.
Starting the trail at Brayshaws Hut
From the parking area (details below) the walk heads right for 90m before reaching Brayshaws Hut. This is the only hut that’s very close to the road, so it has a much less remote feel, though still fascinating to look round.
You can go inside the wooden hut and it’s in great condition, you can even see some old newspaper stuck to the sides of the walls!
There’s a fireplace and a wooden table and chairs, but it’s otherwise empty. It was built in 1903 and was the home of David Brayshaw for 28 years.
He lived here alone in what must have been really harsh conditions, with hot summers and cold winters, it’s hard to comprehend when I think of all today’s mod cons.
After looking around the hut, you follow the wooden marker pointing you along the grassy path. Within another 100m we had spotted our first mob of kangaroos - who were to be our constant, and in fact only, companions along the track.
We always see loads of kangaroos in Namadgi, but this track was probably up there with the highest numbers!
Into the bush
After following the grassy track for 400m from Brayshaws Hut, you’ll head into the bush. Red-necked wallabies were abundant here and you’ll probably see a roo or wallaby every five minutes or so!
After a couple of hundred metres through the bush the track will begin to climb gently. The hill lasts for about 750m, but it’s broken with flat sections and is not strenuous.
The path will then begin to descend gently before coming to a bench seat just over 1.6km into the trail.
There are many information boards along the track, not just at the huts, but at various points along the way, which help give you a greater understanding of the land and how the settlers worked with it. Sadly beside the bench seat the sign is about just how much land was cleared for grazing.
Just 650m beyond the bench you’ll come to a junction and this is where you can choose to take the short or long loop. Although the long loop does add on 3km to the walk (9km vs 6km) it is well worth it.
It visits Waterhole Hut, which is a must in my opinion. It has an almost outback vibe to it, it feels that far from civilsation and it’s also the hut you can sleep in!
To Waterhole Hut
To follow the long loop you’ll head right and it’s well signposted. You’ll see the old sheep dip fence and there’s another bench seat if you want to really take in the landscape.
The only point in the trail where I’d say it was easy to go wrong (very briefly) is just past the bench.
The track heads right but it feels more natural to go straight on. After this it’s very easy to follow once again. The path is now flat or ever so gently downhill.
Roughly 600m from the junction (2.9km into the walk), you’ll cross a little bridge over the creek. From here the trail continues through the bush, with some old fencing and info boards along the way. You’ll encounter a second bridge 650m later.
The grass is definitely trying to reclaim the bridge here - it’s turned almost entirely green! You’ll be very grateful that it’s still there when you see what lies beneath. This part of Namadgi is a real bog fest and I felt like I was back in England, rather than in what’s traditionally quite a dry part of Australia!
There’s now 300m to go until you reach the hut and some of it is on boggy terrain. It wasn’t too bad along this section and not enough to soak our boots - though that was coming next!
Waterhole Hut
Waterhole Hut is an old stockmen’s hut and was used predominantly in summer, though briefly in winter periods too. You’re now 3.9km from the road and have seen nothing but bush and open plains for all that time, so it feels incredibly isolated.
The hut is predominantly made of tin and definitely has that old pioneer feel to it. The views of the surrounding countryside are great and I can only imagine how good the stars would be at night.
I had no idea before visiting that you can actually stay in this hut and wish we’d been able to do it. It’s like an old bothy, or one of the more basic huts in New Zealand - something that I always wish Australia had more of, yet it had been here all along!
The hut is small and rustic: it’s just one room with a large fireplace, two old bench seats and a camp bed that’s seen better days. There’s a wood store area beside the hut and a shovel and water bucket.
Everything else needs to be brought with you and - as always - follow the mountain hut code and leave things in as good or better condition than you found them. It’s a privilege to be able to stay in these historic places and it’s important to preserve them for future generations to come.
To the best of our knowledge there was no toilet here - we didn’t see one anyway - so it’s definitely a back to basics camping adventure, but what a cool experience!
Continuing to Westerman’s Homestead
Beyond Waterhole Hut you’re following an old management trail which is flat and leisurely. There are some giant stones scattered across the landscape that reminded me a bit of Kosciuszko National Park.
Unfortunately, as you continue the ground begins to get very marshy once again. There are lots of stones that I think would normally save you from wet boots, but we visited after heavy rain and most of the stones were submerged.
It was so wet that there were dozens of frogs croaking in the puddles! The bog is intermittent for the next 1.5km, so though the going is easy, you do have to watch your footing at times.
At the 5.8km mark the track will dry out and it’s smooth sailing all the way to the next hut. There are some tiny ups and downs, but it’s basically flat track and the path is good.
You’ll arrive at Westerman’s Homestead just over 7.1km into the walk (3.3km from Waterhole Hut).
Westerman’s Homestead
Lookswise Westerman’s Homestead is my favourite, it’s about as atmospheric a hut as you could ever hope to see.
The wooden hut is painted red and sits beside a picturesque gum tree. It felt like a scene from an oil painting. I imagine it would also make for an incredible astrophotography spot.
The homestead has four rooms and a separate wood store. There are even a couple of old tins of sardines above the fireplace!
Though much restoration work has taken place, it retains its historic feel and is a joy to walk around. Due to its size, it’s much less basic than the first two huts and you can feel that it would have been a family home, albeit a very remote one.
There’s a long drop toilet located a little way to the right of the hut. The fact it’s so immaculate and has no mountain code inside suggests this one cannot be used as somewhere to sleep, though you can camp under the trees nearby.
Finishing the circuit
From Westerman’s Homestead you have just over 1.8km to go to finish the circuit. You’ll pass over an old wooden bridge and then head back into the bush. The trail gradually climbs for much of the way, but is never steep. It will then flatten and you’ll soon arrive back at Brayshaws Hut.
Facilities along The Settlers Track
There are long drop toilets close to both Brayshaws Hut and Westerman’s Homestead, but nowhere else along the trail. There are no rubbish bins, so please remember to carry out all rubbish with you.
Getting to The Settlers Track trailhead
The Settlers Track is located in Namadgi National Park. The trail begins at Brayshaws Hut which has a small car park (though I wouldn’t worry about parking as no one else was on this walk even in the middle of the school Christmas holidays!).
The last 16km of the road to the trailhead is gravel. A 4WD is not required in dry conditions, but expect some bumps and ruts and the odd little stony section.
The carpark is roughly 81km and a one hour 15 minute drive from Canberra. Watch out for kangaroos and wallabies as you enter the national park, there are many!
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