Is there anything better than a beautiful walk followed by a long soak in a hot spring at the end? Maybe a walk where you can also soak in a hot spring part way along the trail too - which is exactly what you’ll find on the Tarawera Trail!
Whilst the track itself is predominantly through the forest, it visits three hot springs, as well as a stunning crystal clear lake (which has real tropical island vibes!).
It’s not a difficult walk, but at 15km it’s quite long, so it’s best done as a one way track using the water taxi service to get back.
Here’s everything you need to know about the Tarawera Trail, one of our favourite things to do in Rotorua.
Tarawera Trail
The stats
Distance: 15.8km one way (including the hot springs detour)
Elevation gain: 570m
Difficulty: Easy - moderate
The Tarawera Trail is easy to moderate if you just walk one way. If you do it as a return I would class it as hard, due to the distance and cumulative elevation gain. The track is generally in good condition, although parts are a little overgrown.
The trail undulates for the majority of the way with just two slightly steeper climbs. There is no tricky terrain, although you’ll find some short muddy patches if walking after prolonged or heavy rain.
We took just under 4 hours to do the entire trail, but this doesn’t include the time spent in the secret hot spring and the hot water lake at the end. ;-)
Which way to walk the track
Normally we’d always want to complete the trail first, soak in the hot spring and then get the boat back to the car. However, that does mean that you have to get to Hot Water Beach in time to catch the water taxi, which must be pre-booked.
We briefly debated going the other way to avoid this but in the end decided to get the boat back. Although I’m glad we did it this way I did feel rushed.
We left ourselves six hours for the walk plus soaking in the springs and I wished I’d allowed more time as I loved the springs and didn’t want to get out! If you don’t like long soaks, then six hours is ample. I spent about 45 minutes in two of the three pools and would have liked a lot longer!
The walk itself took us 3 hours 50 at a leisurely pace. I’d say somewhere between 3.5-4.5 hours will cover pretty much everyone, then add in extra time for swimming and soaking.
Starting the trail
The first kilometre of the walk is probably the flattest of the whole trail, although there are some very gentle undulations.
It’s fairly open at first as you walk in-between the gorse bushes, before entering the forest.
You can hear a roaring waterfall as you meander along the first part of the trail, although it’s fully shrouded in dense bush so you never catch a glimpse. If you get the chance it’s well worth going to check it out another day as it’s a real beauty.
It’s located in the grounds of the Buried Village so you do have to pay an admission fee, but it was definitely worth it, particularly as we didn’t know much about the Mount Tarawera eruption and the museum is really well done (you can also pay to see the waterfall individually without entering the museum).
To Hawaiki Bay
Although you will pass the Te Wairoa Valley Lookout after approximately 800m, it’s nothing to write home about. The first major landmark along the route is Hawaiki Bay which is 5km into the trail.
This section of track starts in dense forest, but soon starts following the lake, with frequent views out over the blue water.
It’s a narrow path so at points some bushes do reach across the trail in a bid to reclaim it, which can be a little scratchy.
We were walking in winter though, so it may be at other times of year with higher footfall this is less of an issue.
The whole of this section of track undulates, but there are no steep climbs and only one spot where the path is slightly washed out and requires a bit of care.
You’ll know you’ve arrived at the bay when you see a toilet to the right. Although the lake is not signposted it follows the little trail on the left where there are also a couple of picnic benches.
Hawaiki Bay is absolutely gorgeous, with incredibly clear water which I was really tempted to take a dip in – yet another reason I wish I’d allowed more time!
However, there is an even nicer spot a little further along the trail which looked like tropical paradise, so if you’re also limited on time you might want to hang on a little longer!
This section took us just under the 1 hour 10 that DOC suggests it should take.
The more beautiful bay a little further along the trail from Hawaiki Bay
To Oneroa Lookout
The next section was 2.2km and - you’ve guessed it - undulated a lot. The last 600m up to the lookout is the steepest of the track to this point, and definitely feels like a proper hill, but it’s over pretty quickly.
Before that, you have yet more lovely views out to the lake through the forest and that amazing tropical looking lake area that I keep mentioning! You’ll reach it approximately 1km after leaving Hawaiki Bay.
You’ll come to a wooden staircase and look down on to the crystal clear water and if you’re anything like me let out a ‘wow’. I turned to Joe and said, ‘this is Rotorua’?! It really looks like Northland!
We did luck out with a gorgeous clear day but it would be stunning regardless. I have never wanted to stop for a swim more, but alas, at just 6km into the walk I didn’t want to risk it. Instead I admired it from above and made a mental note to come back to this spot another time!
If you do want to swim you can enter the water in two spots, the first requires ducking under a tree that’s fallen across the water, and the second is just a minute further along where you’ll see a few steep steps leading directly down to the shore.
After leaving the lake you have a little flat section which was alive with kereru (native pigeon) who startled really easily and swooped across the track in twos and threes.
Approximately 1.6km after leaving the crystal lakeside you hit the hill up to the lookout. The view is good but not great, not quite as open as some of the other views along the trail. There’s a bench seat though, so it’s a good spot to sit and relax before heading on to the springs.
The section between Hawaiki Bay and Oneroa lookout took us 45 minutes, which again is about bang on the DOC suggested time. You could go quicker but you’ll likely also want to stop for photos which will probably slow you down!
To the first hot springs
The next section from the Oneroa Lookout to the first set of hot springs is roughly 3.3km and predominantly downhill or flat. It took us just under 40 minutes, which is a little more than the DOC sign suggested.
This is the easiest part of the whole walk, as well as being a lovely section through dense forest, which was really peaceful and relaxing.
There are seas of tree ferns and plenty of birdlife. You also get the occasional water view as well as a good look at Mount Tarawera.
You will then come to the spot known as the Te Wairua Stream amenity area. You’ll see the long drop toilet on the other side of the stream and then come to a small wooden bridge. There are two sets of hot springs near here, neither of which are signposted and one of which we didn’t realise was there until afterwards sadly!
To get to the hot spring we did find, you need to cross the bridge and then take the path immediately on the left. When we visited logs were stacked across the path, but they might not always be there, so just make sure you take the first left down the obvious trail.
Follow it for 450m and you’ll come to the small pool. It wasn’t huge and when I first saw it it didn’t blow me away, but as soon as I got in, I loved it.
The water was wonderfully warm but not hot, so you didn’t have to keep getting out and though it’s shallow it kept me toasty even in winter.
It’s surrounded by trees and the frogs hiding in the rushes give a constant soundtrack, which makes you feel like you’re properly out in nature.
If you continue the path round past the pool you’ll reach the lakeshore within a minute.
Sadly we didn’t visit the next spring but from what we found out later it’s just a few minutes away from the first one.
Start heading back down the path and then take the first path on the right which leads to a hut (it’s almost immediately after leaving the hot spring). We only went as far as the hut.
If we had carried on heading right we should have come to the springs. Hopefully this is enough to help you get there as the springs look pretty amazing in photos!
To Hot Water Beach (Te Rata Bay)
Once you’re back on the main track and just past the wooden bridge you’ll find a long drop toilet and another picnic bench.
From here you are just 3.5km from Hot Water Beach, roughly 1.1km of which is steeply uphill. It’s all well made track and there are little flat bits to break it up, but it’s predominantly uphill and the steepest section of the whole walk.
It’s in the shade for the most part though and that makes it feel much easier.
Once you reach the top of the hill you’ll find a bench seat and a good lake view from the Lake Rotomahana Lookout.
We thought that was the end of the uphill, but there are a few undulations left, and you only start heading downhill to the lake after another 250m.
When you do start descending it’s very easy, it’s never steep enough to feel uncomfortable, which makes it a very leisurely end to the hike.
As you hit the last of the staircases you’ll reach the lakeshore and then it’s just 100m to the end of the lake and the majority of the geothermal action.
You’ll see the steam coming off the far side of the lake as soon as you hit the shore and it looks incredible.
Hot Water Beach hot springs (Te Rata Bay)
We didn’t really know what to expect from Hot Water Beach, having read a variety of different contradictory things online!
For that reason we decided to write a whole post about it, but in case you just want a short version, the main thing to note is that you really need to watch the temperature.
Some of the water is scalding hot and you need to make sure you are in an area where the hot spring and cold lake water mix to cool it a little!
Avoid the outlet stream into the lake (it’s marked by rocks and a sign), it is insanely hot.
There is a toilet and changing area behind the beach and also a campsite which must be booked in advance here.
Getting to the Tarawera Trail
The car park at the Tarawera trailhead is located roughly 10km and a 10 minute drive from Rotorua. There is a large car park which is free of charge and has several toilets.
If you only want to walk one way you can book a water taxi service with Totally Tarawera here. At time of writing the cost is $30 per adult and the journey took 20 minutes. You are then driven from the jetty back to the car park which takes a couple of minutes more.
The boat is quite small so I’d recommend booking as soon as you are sure of your dates if travelling in peak season. We visited in winter when there were three daily sailings, but there might be more at other times of year.
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