We fell in love with the little cloud forest village of San Gerardo de Dota. We didn’t expect to, in fact we weren’t even planning to visit until an old friend of mine currently living in Costa Rica mentioned that we should. We’re so glad we didn’t miss out on this magical little place where the air is cool, the forests are misty and mysterious, and magnificent resplendent quetzals can be spotted in the avocado trees beside the river.
We stayed for three nights, and if we didn’t have another booking already made, we would have extended.
Although we only scratched the surface of what you can do in the area, our guide should give you a few ideas for how to spend a couple of days in this beautiful cloud forest paradise.
Things to do in San Gerardo de Dota
1. Marvel at the magnificent resplendent quetzals
One of the main reasons the majority of people come to San Gerardo de Dota is to catch a glimpse of one of the rare Resplendent quetzals.
Known as one of the most beautiful birds in the world, they are a coveted sighting by more than just birdwatchers. We’d been lucky enough to see one in Monteverde Cloud Forest, but it was at quite a distance.
We were hoping to get a closer sighting at San Gerardo de Dota and it didn’t disappoint. We saw four quetzals (two couples) and spotted one of the males several times throughout our stay.
The colours of the males in particular are so striking, and if you are lucky enough to see them fly, it’s absolutely dazzling.
There’s a lot of talk about whether you need a guide or not, and I think it partly comes down to what time of year you visit, and what you are hoping to get from the experience.
We didn’t take a guide because we were lucky enough to be visiting during the nesting season (our visit was March) when it’s pretty easy to spot a quetzal. You just need to ask a local for some tips, we asked the lovely staff member at Café Kahawa, and she kindly told us where they were most often spotted.
We turned up at the exact spot she’d mentioned at 5.30am (said to be the best time for spotting them, although we saw them in the afternoon too) and we saw the female immediately and the male a little later.
We then saw the same couple numerous times throughout our stay and always in the same trees. I have no idea if couples return to the same trees year after year, but just incase, it was directly opposite the terrace of the Alma de Árbol Dota cafe.
In fact we had our lunch at the cafe and saw the quetzals then too. It was pretty incredible to see them right from the balcony of a cafe!
If you’re not in nesting season - which according to the internet is February to June, although we were told March and April is prime time - then it may be slightly trickier to spot them without a guide.
The reason to have a guide beyond simply finding them, is if you want to discover more about quetzals, and also if you don’t have a zoom lens and what to take photos using the guide’s telescope. Similarly if you simply want to look through the telescope.
However, not all guided trips are created equal. The majority we saw take large groups along the main road that runs through the village (this is a very quiet road, but it’s still a road). This is where we saw our quetzals.
However on our last day in the area, we walked a couple of the trails at the Savegre Hotel’s private reserve (you don’t need to stay there, but if you’re not you’ll pay an entry fee) and we bumped into a couple who’d hired a private guide from the hotel and had seen three quetzals in the forest. No road, no crowds, pure nature. We said instantly if we were to hire a guide it would be here. This is the real wildlife documentary experience you dream about.
A big group on the road is not our vibe, but you will see them with an almost 100% guarantee, so it depends what sort of experience you’re looking for.
Also we didn’t ask the price of the Savegre Hotel’s private guided trips, but it would stand to reason that they would be much more expensive than a group trip along the road.
2. Wander the beautiful trails at the Savegre Reserve
The Savegre Reserve has a network of forest trails which was a highlight of our time in San Gerardo de Dota. We didn’t stay at the hotel but paid USD $10 for access to the reserve, and we were completely enchanted by the forest.
It’s absolutely spectacular, and oh so quiet. We saw just a handful of people during our time there, for the most part it felt like we had this whole sensational cloud forest to ourselves.
We only had time to walk two short trails, although we later regretted missing the longer trail here in favour of the very disappointing Los Quetzales National Park (more on that later). We chose the Los Pioneros and La Quebrada Tracks, which connect to form a 2.3km walk.
This spectacular and easy trail winds down through a glorious stretch of cloud forest. The track is very well maintained, although there are a few very small sections which were damp and a touch slippery.
The forest is dense, with giant strangler figs, tree ferns and hanging vines - it’s completely captivating and we didn’t even have mist. If the clouds roll in, it would be simply magical.
There are small cascades and so many birds. You are far away from any roads, so the sounds are that of nature, which adds the most soothing backdrop to the walk.
The excellent trail conditions meant that unlike the gorgeous but tricky Rio Savagre Waterfall walk, you could focus fully on the forest around you, not what’s under your feet. This is forest bathing at its best.
If you don’t have a 4WD you can’t access the closest car park to the trails. You can either walk for 1.8km up the gravel road (all uphill) or take the hotel’s shuttle for USD $3 per person.
The shuttle leaves on demand, but only in the mornings. We’d recommend taking the shuttle one way and walking back, this is because the La Quebrada Track finishes at a lower point along the road, so you only have 1km to walk back and it’s all downhill.
It took us 12 minutes! It also means you don’t have to negotiate a pick up time in advance, so you can take your time.
3. Lunch with the birds at Miriam's Quetzals
Miriam's Quetzals is a restaurant with a view! The view alone would be worth a visit, with layers of forested mountains which look straight out of a David Attenborough documentary when the clouds roll in.
However, most people visit because they have a large feeding station in front of the terrace, which attracts a plethora of different bird species.
Despite the name I think you’d be lucky to spot a quetzal here, but you’re almost guaranteed to see acorn woodpeckers, hummingbirds and various types of tanagers (we saw blue-greys, scarlet rumped and flame coloured tanagers here).
Now I feel a bit guilty saying this as the couple that run the cafe are very sweet, but you don’t come here for the food. We weren’t overly impressed with either dish we tried, nor the coffee (ouch that feels harsh to say).
However, we’d go again in a heartbeat to have drinks and snacks. And we’d say that though the food isn’t great, it’s still worth ordering just to enjoy the beautiful scenery and birdlife.
It’s worth noting there is only one table on the terrace, although there is additional bench seating. We were told that most people don’t like the terrace table as sometimes big groups come onto the terrace, and it gets a bit hectic.
However, there were only four people in the whole place for the duration of our visit, so we were happy with our terrace choice. If a group comes you can always move inside and then at least you had some time in the prime spot!
4. Brave the icy waters for a spectacular wild swim
The beautiful Rio Savegre has a number of glorious emerald swimming holes surrounded by dense forest. It won’t be for everyone as the water is icy cold, I’d say it’s similar to the glacial pools of New Zealand, but if you come ready to channel your inner Wim Hof, then I can guarantee it will leave you feeling so alive!
Even if the thought of a cold plunge is absolutely not for you, you can come for a paddle, or simply to sit beside the water and enjoy the serenity.
Not all parts of the Rio Savegre are suitable for swimming, as some sections have a strong current. We’ve detailed the locations of two easy swimming spots in this guide, where in dry season the current was very slight.
I very much doubt you can swim in the rainy season, but as mentioned you don’t have to swim to enjoy these spots. Both swimming holes mentioned in the linked guide are less than a 1km walk (each way) along a lovely well maintained path.
5. Hike to a wild and remote waterfall
This waterfall hike can be split into two parts. You have a beautiful and well maintained trail as far as the first waterfall, and then a beautiful, but sketchy track to the main waterfall.
The first waterfall is quite obscured, there’s no longer a good viewing area, but the walk itself is still gorgeous and well worth doing. It’s just 1km each way.
The second part of the hike isn’t without its risks because the path is extremely poorly maintained.
I am including it here for those who love adventure hikes, but do read the trail notes in this guide before embarking, so you know what you’re up against.
The waterfall is a stunner and the forest is wild and wonderful, but in most countries this second part of the track would be closed.
6. Gorge on the local trout
Trucha (trout) is the local speciality and you’ll find it on just about every menu in town. There are a lot of ways to have it, from fried or grilled, to ceviche, on bruschetta, or in tacos.
I had trout every single day in San Gerardo and it made for some of my favourite meals in Costa Rica. It’s so fresh and not the least bit fishy.
My favourite trout dish was actually at the lodge we were staying in, Lauraceas Lodge. I’d recommend the grilled version over the fried. I have to say the sides were nothing to write home about, but the trout itself was some of the best fish I’ve ever eaten in my life.
7. Kick back and relax at one of the gorgeous lodges
When you first start looking at where to stay in San Gerardo de Dota you’ll probably have a hard time choosing. Most lodges are in the most spectacular settings, and many have great birdwatching opportunities onsite.
We opted for Lauraceas Lodge and it didn’t disappointed. Though it didn’t have the grounds of some of the other more expensive lodges, the individual cabins were so lovely. The beds and shower were great, it was spacious, and we fell asleep to the sound of the river - which is opposite the cabins. It was really peaceful and we didn’t want to leave!
Other lodges we had personally recommended to us by friends who have stayed there were Trogon Lodge (beautiful grounds and excellent birdwatching onsite) and the more expensive Dantica Lodge.
Dantica has a series of private trails, and the more expensive rooms have floor to ceiling windows with cloud forest views.
It’s worth noting that you’re up in the mountains and nights are very cold in San Gerardo, even in the warmest months of the year. Most lodges will offer hot water bottles and, or heaters if needed.
8. One to skip
We don’t usually do this because we tend to like most things we do, but honestly Los Quetzales National Park was a real let down.
Well the main sector anyway, the trails I’ve mentioned above are actually in the national park too, but accessed via San Gerardo de Dota village, where there is no entry fee, or opening hours.
Though our thoughts on the main sector at Los Quetzales National Park have nothing to do with cost.
It simply comes down to the fact the trails were really disappointing, particularly the longer Oro de Agua Trail.
There’s very little to see and I would never suggest someone spend any of there precious holiday in Costa Rica here when the trails at Savegre Hotel are infinitely more special (and fractionally cheaper).
You might get very lucky and spot wildlife here, but we saw far more at the Savegre Reserve. The national park is home to tapir, but the ranger told us she’s never seen them anytime but at night when the reserve is closed.
I’d strongly recommend heading to Savegre Hotel, or to the other part of the national park where the trails are very pretty. However, if you do want to know more about the walks in the main sector of the park to make up your own mind, we have a detailed guide here.
Where to stay in San Gerardo de Dota
Lauraceas Lodge
We stayed at Lauraceas Lodge. It was our favourite stay in Costa Rica. We had an individual cabin with a comfy bed and great shower. It had a really lovely feel to it and we fell asleep to the sound of the river (which is opposite the hotel). It was the quietest place we stayed in the whole country and we would have extended our stay if we’d had the chance.
The only thing to note is that San Gerardo de Dota gets very cold at night. They do offer a heater if needed. We were ok with all the bedding and blankets, but I imagine a lot of people would prefer to take the heater!
You can see the reviews and prices on:
Getting to San Gerardo de Dota
The road to San Gerardo de Dota is all paved. Well that is apart from the bits that have fallen into disrepair and are now gravel. The road is very steep and there are potholes.
However, in the dry season at least, you do not require a 4WD. We did it in a little Toyota Yaris. Now that’s not to say you won’t be more comfortable in a car with some clearance, but you don’t actually need one.
Just be prepared for some narrow steep roads.
On a good run it’s about two hours from San Jose, roughly 90km. However, get stuck behind one of the big trucks that go at a snail’s pace and it can take double that time. It’s around three hours from Manuel Antonio but same applies for the trucks!
This post may contain affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, we will earn a small commission if you click through and decide to make a purchase. This helps towards the costs of running our website. Thanks for your support.
