Love it or hate it, it can’t be denied that the view from Pura Lempuyang is out of this world. The stunning “gates of heaven” perfectly frame the looming Mount Agung in what is one of the most atmospheric spots on the whole island. However, somewhere this glorious doesn’t remain a secret in the world of social media and a visit here today sure isn’t what it used to be!
You may have heard the stories: queues of over three hours, high entrance fees and mandatory shuttles - they’re all true! But what if we were to tell you that we visited with just six other people on a day that over 500 tickets were sold?!
In this guide, we’ll explain exactly how to visit with the least crowds and every other thing you need to know about a trip to Pura Lempuyang now that everything’s changed.
12 Things to know before visiting Pura Lempuyang
1. Sunrise is not the best time to visit
Sunrise used to be the best time to visit the Pura Lempuyang as this is the time when the weather conditions are often at their best. At sunrise, it is more likely that Mount Agung will be visible as the heat of the day normally shrouds it in clouds, and originally fewer people would visit at this time as it’s so early.
However, once word spread, sunrise became one of the busiest times to visit and the queues are so long that it almost guarantees that you won’t get the shots you’re looking for.
Even if you get there so incredibly early that you’re first in the queue you’ll probably find that it’s too dark to take pictures and once you’ve had your turn that’s it!
If that sounds like your idea of hell, then we’re with you. And that’s exactly why we avoided sunrise on our most recent visit. Instead we’d recommend going at sunset.
You won’t be alone (that doesn’t happen anymore) but you’ll be with far less people. I was shocked to hear that over 500 tickets were sold on the day we visited, yet we queued with just six other people. Everyone got the chance to shoot two separate times which is pretty much unheard of nowadays.
2. Time it wrong and you’ll be queuing for over 3 hours
Three hour queues are not unusual at Pura Lempuyang; in fact they’re the norm. You’ll likely experience this between sunrise and the late afternoon. In order to mitigate the long snaking lines, you’re now given a number when you buy your entry ticket and when it’s your turn you’ll be called just like you would at a cheese counter in the supermarket! A romantic experience it’s not….
Numbers are issued per group, not per person, which is even more depressing if you’re a high number and you see groups of four ahead! Groups are given the opportunity to take shots together and individually so they take even longer than four individuals would.
3. The weather conditions are everything if you want to see the view
The gates of heaven are stunning, but without that Mount Agung backdrop they’re similar to many other temple gates around Bali which you’d never have to queue up to photograph. If you want to see Mount Agung, then you’ll need to check the weather conditions carefully.
Everyone says to go at sunrise because Agung is more likely to be out from under the cloud, but that suggests you have no way of knowing when it will be out and therefore have to gamble on sunrise.
That’s simply not the case. Though it’s not an exact science, we have seen Mount Agung countless times throughout the day (not just at sunrise) by using this weather forecast. Click on the details tab and then scroll across to cloud cover which is listed hour by hour. Ideally you’d want very low cloud cover in all categories but that’s a rarity.
You want to pick the time that there is the lowest amount of low and middle cloud. High cloud will be above the cone and is less important. A bit of low or middle cloud can be atmospheric depending on where it sits, but you want the lowest possible in the hope it’s not covering the cone. Ideally, you will want similar conditions in the Culik/eastern Bali area as well, as sometimes Mount Agung is clear but Pura Lempuyang is covered in cloud!
For reference our pictures are taken during 30% low cloud, 6% middle cloud and plenty of high cloud. You’ll also want to check that the fog reading says zero or it could be shrouded in mist. If you are only in the area for a short time it can be worth a gamble. Agung can definitely pop out of thick cloud even if it’s only for a few minutes. Though the difficulty of visiting Pura Lempuyang means that it might not be the few minutes that you’re able to take photos!
4. Entry is no longer by donation
On our first visit, entry to Pura Lempuyang was by donation. This is no longer the case, and at time of writing a visit costs 55k rupiah (USD $3.80).
It might sound a lot (by Bali standards) but when you think about it, the community has the chance to make some good money in an area which doesn’t have many lucrative job opportunities for people, so who can blame them?
On top of that they are all really friendly and don’t have that jaded attitude that you sometimes (understandably) find in heavily touristed areas.
5. You can no longer drive to the temple car park
This is the one that I thought was really annoying when I realised because previously we’d driven right up to the nearest car park to the temple.
I thought this was just an over the top money making scheme until I got there and remembered just how steep and windy the road up is. And how small the car park is.
It would never have coped with how many visitors they get now and it would have been really unsafe. Especially with a mix of cars and scooters and the narrow road.
The shuttle is 45k rupiah (USD $3) per person return and will take you the last 3km from the huge new car park further down the hill. As you drive towards the temple there will be someone stood in the road ready to direct you to the big car park and stop you driving straight up to the temple.
The first shuttle leaves at 5.30am and the last departs Lempuyang temple at 6.20pm (at time of writing).
6. You have to wear a sarong even if your legs are covered
It might not feel like a religious place anymore, but Pura Lempuyang is still an active temple complex and sarongs must be worn by both men and women. It doesn’t matter if you’re wearing trousers or a long dress, you still need to wear a sarong.
Sarong rental is included in your entry ticket, but bring your own if you want to make sure you like how it looks! You don’t pay less if you already have your own, but it will ensure you’re happy with it.
Note that your shoulders must also be covered when inside the temple complex.
7. There’s no reflective pool
Despite the fact the majority of pictures you see are of what looks like a reflective pool in front of the temple, the reality is there’s no water here.
Instead, one of the temple workers sits in front of the view with a mirror and will take pictures for you with what looks like the perfect reflection. There’s no charge for this, but a donation will be very welcome.
8. You’re only allowed to choose three poses for photos - yes really!
The rule at Lempuyang now is that you’re only allowed three poses before your turn is up. It might sound a bit draconian but people will keep shooting for hours given half the chance so it does make sense. In reality if you visit at a quiet time of day like we did we saw people allowed to take around 8 different poses before being gently told it was the final shot another four times!
If it’s busy I am sure it is enforced more, if not by the temple workers then by the impatient crowd!
9. You can no longer visit the temple complex
It wasn’t that long ago that you were allowed to visit the whole temple complex, but now that is strictly reserved for worshippers only. It’s a shame, but again it’s understandable as it is a holy place.
This does mean that a visit to Pura Lempuyang is now solely about that one photo opportunity which feels a bit cringey, but I can’t say it wasn’t worth it!
If you’re visiting at a quiet time there are a couple of nice spots you can sit and have a more relaxed experience though.
The first is the top of the one of the several sets of stairs leading up towards the temples (which is still permitted). It offers a great view over the gates and Mount Agung. The second is passing through the gates of heaven and sitting on the stairs below, looking out at Mount Agung.
10. The walk is short or you can skip it entirely
The walk from where the shuttle drops you off to the temple gates is very short and only takes around five minutes. However that is a veeeery steep five minutes!
As you puff to the top you’ll be offered scooter rides by the enterprising locals. We didn’t ask the price as it wasn’t far to walk, but if you really want to avoid the hill then you can simply hop on the back of one of the motorbikes.
11. It’s far from a relaxing experience
The view is so stunning and visiting Pura Lempuyang in the past would have been an incredibly atmospheric experience. However, even with the tiny amount of people that were there on our visit, it wasn’t a relaxing experience.
Firstly, you’re waiting for your number to be called and hoping the forecast holds true and Agung won’t disappear behind the cloud. Secondly, when it is your turn, everyone is watching you. As someone who is extremely awkward in front of the camera I felt somewhat mortified by it all.
Was it worth it though? I’d still say yes, but not if I’d had to queue for three hours!
12. A zoom lens will make the volcano appear even bigger
Whilst it’s certainly a lot easier to use a phone to take your photo, a telephoto or zoom lens can make a huge difference - although it isn’t something you can do if there’s a big queue.
By using a technique called compression, you can make Mount Agung appear much taller. You can see the difference between taking a photo close up with a normal lens and further back with a zoom lens below.
Without a zoom / telephoto lens - shot close up with 30mm focal length
With a zoom / telephoto lens - shot far back with a 100mm focal length
The key to doing this is to shoot with a zoom lens from further back along the path. This can be really awkward at Pura Lempuyang, as you’ll need to ask everyone else to move aside - but we found that everyone was really courteous when we asked (the staff even moved their bench to help us get the shot). However, the awkwardness is well worth it as we believe the shots with the zoom lens are a lot more impressive.
Other essential info for your visit
Pura Lempuyang opening hours
The temple is open between 6am and 6pm unless you’re there to worship in which case it’s 24/7, though I am assuming anyone reading this guide is not there to worship! In reality we were told we didn’t need to leave until the last shuttle which was 6.20pm.
The access road
Even before you get to the mandatory shuttle area there are some pretty steep and windy roads. If you’re not an experienced motorbike driver you might find it quite full on. If that’s the case just hire a driver and save yourself the hassle. Be super careful if heading to the temple or back to your accommodation in the dark. We prefer staying close-ish by to the temple, but many people do come from as far as Ubud and Kuta.
Pura Lempuyang is roughly 30 minutes from Amed, one hour from Sidemen, 1 hour 50 from Ubud and almost 2 hours from Kuta.
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