After four visits to Bali, we finally decided to take the plunge and hire a rental car. We normally get around by scooter or with a driver, but we wanted to do some longer journeys. As we thought it might be a bit much on a scooter, yet we still wanted total independence. The answer seemed to be giving a rental car a go.
However, one quick look on travellers forums had us questioning if we were crazy. Many people claimed they’d driven all over the world and Bali was the worst! Still, we like to make up our own minds, and in this guide we’ll be sharing exactly what it’s like to drive in Bali and all the things to look out for.
Why not just rent a scooter or driver?
The first question everyone asks when you mention you’re renting a car is “why aren’t you hiring a scooter instead?” Hiring your own scooter is, of course, the cheapest option for getting around, and many cost as little as $5 USD per day. They are really fun to ride, and are a great way to get around the incredibly narrow and slow roads in Bali.
However, riding a scooter in Bali is not without its risks. The vast majority of travellers in Bali ride motorbikes unaware that they are doing so illegally and without valid insurance.
Most (in fact we haven’t found any) travel insurance companies will not cover your medical expenses for any injury caused when on a motorbike, if you don’t have a motorcycle license. Whilst we’ve never had an accident, motorbike accidents in Bali are a well worn cliche, and can have life changing consequences.
We know of someone who had a really bad accident on a bike which resulted in some long term injuries, and $50,000 USD medical expenses. Without the correct license specifically for motorbikes/scooters, insurance companies won’t pay out, which makes a bad situation even worse.
After hearing this, we decided to limit how often we were hiring scooters, and really only use them if there was no other option, or the journey was very short.
Sorry to lead on a dour note, but we thought it was an important thing to say!
With regards to hiring a driver: we have hired drivers many times and would definitely recommend it. However, it doesn’t give the complete freedom that you get when hiring your own car. We like to go out in the morning, maybe take a break in the afternoon and then go back out for sunset, it’s all so much easier when you have your own wheels.
Anyway, here’s how we found driving in Bali and the things you need to know before hiring a car.
Things to know about driving in Bali
We’ve driven in a lot of countries around the world, including places like Jordan, Thailand, Israel, Turkey and others where it isn’t quite as regulated or orderly as western countries.
I’ll be upfront and say that the first day of driving in Bali was a challenge! However, after getting over the initial shock and frustration, I soon got used to it. This didn’t mean it became easy, I just went with the flow more.
Here are our key takeaways:
1. There are a lot of hazards and it’s a bit of a free for all
At times, driving in Bali felt like a real life game of Mario Kart. Whether it’s scooters flying out from behind you, dogs laying on the road refusing to move, cars overtaking on blind corners, or trucks that drive down the middle of the road at 9km per hour, you’ll find that you’re never far away from a hazard!
There’s no switching off and cruising in Bali, as you constantly have to be aware of everything going on around you.
Add in a general disregard for rights of way and basic road rules, and you’ll find that driving in Bali will either feel like a fun adventure, or nail biting anxiety. The fact that the roads are so slow means that the chances of having a serious accident in a car are low.
However, you’ll find yourself having to deal with crazy moves, such as the time I was over taken and cut up by a motorbike whilst I was turning right onto another road…..
2. The roads are generally in good condition
On the whole, the roads in Bali are in very good condition. The majority of roads we drove down were well paved, there are a few potholes, but generally they were a breeze to drive on.
Unlike in some parts of the world, they weren’t bumpy or rough, and held up well in the rain.
3. The roads are very narrow and windy, and passing lanes don’t exist
Outside of the “highway” on the south coast, the roads in Bali are single lanes and very narrow. Many of the roads are a little wider than a single car, making passing oncoming vehicles tricky. In the hills, these roads can be even narrower and extra windy.
The main issue comes when you’re stuck behind trucks that trundle up the hills at a mere 10 km/h…….
Some of the ‘roads’ to certain attractions, namely waterfalls, are too narrow for cars to pass each other, so you may end up parking a little further away and walking. However, it’s never very far and therefore not really an issue.
4. Some of the roads are veeery steep
Bali is a very steep island, and a lot of the main attractions are on top of very steep, narrow roads. For instance, Pura Lempuyang is at the end of a road that can only fit one car comfortably, and it’s not the kind of place you want to do a hill start on!
Whilst this makes driving tricky, it makes riding a scooter potentially perilous, so we were always happier to be in a car!
5. The roads are really beautiful
Outside the main cities, few roads in Bali are anything but stunningly beautiful. It felt like no matter where we drove, there was an incredible view. Whether it was a volcano, endless rice terraces, mountains, jungles or pretty villages, Bali roads have the wow factor.
Having your own car gives you the freedom not only to take in all the gorgeous scenery, but pull over and discover lots of gems you wouldn’t otherwise see - whether it’s a waterfall, viewpoint, or warung that you never knew existed.
No matter where we went, there always seemed to be enough room to pull over and hop out, and you’ll rarely get any grief about stopping at the side of the road.
6. But incredibly slow…..
Bali wins the award for the slowest roads we have ever been on. It was so slow, that when we arrived in Dubai afterwards it felt like we were going at supersonic speeds. Any time you go above 40km per hour, it feels like you’ve won the lottery.
One look on Google Maps will verify this, as a journey from Sidemen to Kuta takes 1 hour 30 minutes to cover just 55km. That’s an average speed of 35km per hour, and a large portion of the route is on a highway!
Getting used to how slow Balinese roads are takes time, and having come from Australia it was frustrating to be in 3rd gear or lower most of the time. It’s a combination of traffic, slow vehicles and incredibly narrow roads.
7. We think it’s the safest way to get around
When compared to scooters, driving a car is the safest way to get around. There is a general rule on the road that size matters, and the bigger vehicles seem to get the right of way. That means that scooters are bottom of the pile, and many cars or lorries will often pull crazy overtaking manoeuvres if the only thing in their lane is a scooter.
This didn’t happen to us in a car, as the other drivers didn’t expect us to let them through. With a car, they’d often stay in their lane or make room for you to go by.
Although the chances of having a prang are quite high, the chances of a serious accident when the roads are so slow felt very low.
8. Driving from the airport is a baptism of fire
Driving around Kuta is a difficult way to start your driving adventure. Kuta has the busiest roads on the island, as well as some of the fastest. Whilst driving around Bali, we found times where there were four lines of traffic on a two lane road, as well as people often choosing to scooter the wrong way down the road and almost clatter into us head on.
If possible, we’d recommend hiring a driver to take you up to somewhere like Ubud, or away from the crowded Kuta/Denpasar area, and starting from somewhere quieter. If you are planning on only staying in the south of the island, then you won’t need to hire a car. It’s far easier to take taxis, drivers or grabs to get around.
9. Many companies will deliver the hire car to your hotel
One of the great things about hiring a car in Bali is that some companies will deliver the car directly to your hotel. We hired with a company that simply dropped it off in the parking lot of our hotel in Ubud. We did the paperwork there and then, and we were off - no queuing at the car hire desk, no need for a taxi across town, it was so easy!
They then offered to pick up the car from our hotel, or the airport when we left.
10. Some local companies will want a deposit and payment in cash
One irritating aspect of hiring a car in Bali is that some of the companies that deliver your car will want payment for the rental and the damage deposit in cash. That can mean having to get hundreds of dollars in either US dollars, Australian dollars or Indonesian rupiah.
Whilst this isn’t bad if you are coming from the US or Australia, it is annoying from any other country as you’ll be left with piles of cash that isn’t your own currency right at the end of your trip.
11. There’s only one toll road on the island
At time of writing, there is only one toll road in Bali, and it runs from Denpasar through south Kuta and the airport, to Nusa Dua. There are plans to build another in the future, but currently the rest of the island is toll free.
Other things to note
International Drivers Permit
In order to hire a car in Bali, you’ll need to have an international drivers permit as well as your driver’s license. Most countries will give you one free of charge, or for a nominal fee, just make sure you get one ahead of time.
Rental Car Excess / Insurance
Insurance with car hire can be incredibly confusing and it is something we’ve never really got our heads around. It tends to be that you legally need to cover Third-Party Liability, Collision Damage and Theft Protection, but have an excess for any claims that arise while you hire the car.
We always book with rentalcars.com because those insurance policies are covered in the price you are quoted 99% of the time. It is well displayed on their search results, so you can always see if you have it included before you book.
Many companies offer very cheap insurance excess - ours was around $300 USD - so you depending on how long you hire the car, you may not want to take an excess insurance policy.
Bali Driving Rules & Tips
Which side of the road?
Indonesia drives on the left side of the road, which can take a lot of getting used to for the majority of the world, especially as the roads are narrow! Brits and Aussies will find this much easier.
Toll Roads
At the time of writing, there is only 1 toll road in Bali, which is by the airport. There are plans for more in the future.
Don’t hire a GPS, download Google Maps
We discovered that Google Maps can save maps to your phone, allowing you to do route guidance completely offline.
On your phone click on the menu (it should be 3 horizontal lines in the search box) -> offline maps -> custom map -> select the area you want to visit and download! This will save you money and alleviate the fear of getting lost. Not everywhere is on Google Maps, but it will enable you to get to most places. We found Google Maps to be generally accurate for all but the odd dirt road destination.
Where to rent a car
We always use rentalcars.com when we book car hire abroad as it gets the prices from all the major car hire companies (and a few we’d never heard of). It usually includes insurance for collision, third party liability and theft protection.
You can get a quote below.
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