After a few failed attempts, we finally made it to the Flinders Ranges and it was definitely worth the wait! The scenery is absolutely breathtaking. So much so, that we had to keep stopping just to take pictures of the roads!
There’s an incredible amount to do; from South Australia’s best hiking trails, to fabulous Aboriginal rock art, awe inspiring gorges you can drive through, and lots and lots of wildlife!
In short, it’s an SA must do. It quickly became one of our favourite places in Australia and somewhere I’m already dreaming of returning to.
Here are 17 things you just can’t miss in the Flinders Ranges.
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1: Climb Tanderra Saddle and walk through Wilpena Pound
2: Try the feral platter at the Prairie Hotel
3: Hear the tales of the 1800s on the Blinman Mine Tour
4: Try an 100 year old pasty recipe at the Miners Crib Cafe
5: Catch a sunrise at the Razorback lookout
6: See 6,000 year old Aboriginal Rock Art at Arkaroo Rock
7: Drive through the beautiful Brachina Gorge
8: Catch a sunset at Stokes Hill
9: Hike up Mount Ohlssen Bagge
10: Drive through the beautiful Bunyeroo Gorge
11: Soar over Wilpena Pound on a scenic flight
12: Spot the endangered Yellow Footed Rock Wallabies
13: Adventure through a sensational slot canyon
14: Indulge in Quandong Pie in Quorn
15: Learn from the locals at the Quorn Silo Show
16: Visit an old homestead at Kanyaka
17: Try the best pies in the Flinders Ranges at Stone Hut Bakery
Flinders Ranges orientation
A quick note before we get going on the best things to do: the area that constitutes the Flinders Ranges is huge.
Some of the activities on this list are three hours apart, so for that reason we’re going to use the most popular part of the Flinders, Wilpena Pound, as the anchor point and split our list into north of the Pound and south of the Pound.
You will drive through the southern part of the Flinders to get to Wilpena Pound, so it’s worth stopping there on the way. We spent a few days in the area and it didn’t even feel enough time, so don’t skip it!
The best things to do in Wilpena and the Northern Flinders Ranges
These are the best things to do in the Flinders Ranges:
1. Climb Tanderra Saddle, St Mary Peak
St Mary Peak is the tallest mountain in the Flinders, and as such, it’s a coveted hike. Even non hikers will give this one a go to tick off the big one.
The peak itself is sacred, and the local Adnyamathanha people kindly request you don’t hike to the very summit.
For this reason, we went to the saddle instead and it’s certainly no consolation prize! The views are fantastic and there’s a lot of variety to the walk, from some steep scrambles, to a long relaxing descent through the heart of the pound.
We’d recommend the loop version of the track, because no one likes going back on themselves, and you get to see so much more of the area!
We’ve written a detailed guide to the hike which covers everything from terrain to what to look out for along the way.
2. Try the feral platter at the Prairie Hotel
Emu pate anyone? Or maybe a camel sausage? You’ll find this and more on the menu at the famous Prairie Hotel.
They specialise in dishes that make the most of local ingredients with their feral platter and feral antipastos stealing the show.
The Prairie Hotel is an institution and people literally drive from hours away for a visit. If you’re used to outback grub being a big disappointment (like we are), the Prairie Hotel is a breath of fresh air. The food is absolutely delicious, it’s feral fine dining!
Joe went for the platter and everything on it was delish. As a veggie I couldn’t indulge, but did try the Quandong crumble for dessert - which is a must!
The setting is also spectacular as the dining room is decorated with a huge collection of fabulous Aboriginal art. So much so, that it felt like dining in an art gallery, which I loved. If you’d prefer to sit outside they have a huge deck with a nice outback view.
Oh and don’t forget to check out the fossils in the rock slabs to the right side of the building (outside) before you leave, some are 550 million years old!
3. Hear tales from the 1800’s on the Blinman Mine Tour
We ummed and ahhed over whether to take this tour, but in the end we decided to give it a try. It was the right decision.
I was worried it might be focusing a lot on the actual specifics of mining, but i was delighted to discover that the majority was around true stories about the miners and each one was more fascinating than the last. It brought the whole mine to life and was one of the most engaging tours I’ve been on.
You’ll head into the mine and get the chance to walk some of the passageways and learn about how the copper was extracted (which is in fact way more interesting that I had given it credit for!) and when the lights go out you can start to imagine what the conditions must have been like for the miners.
I loved the whole thing and was happy to have supported a local community initiative which was set up by volunteers to preserve a big piece of Blinman’s cultural heritage.
Don’t miss the chance to visit the miner’s cottage at the end of the tour, they’ll offer you the opportunity to take the key and have a poke around on your own, and it was well worth a look. Check out all the old wedding photos on the walls, clearly smiling in pictures was not the done thing at the time!
If you’re really keen, do book the tour in advance, we couldn’t get in the first time we tried.
4. Try an 100 year old pasty recipe at the Miners Crib Cafe
Ever wondered what the miners used to eat down in the deep dark mines over one hundred years ago? Well no I didn’t either until we went into the Miners Cafe for a coffee and saw the sign that said the pasty recipe they use is over a hundred years old! It is exactly what the miners used to eat all those years ago.
But more than that we couldn’t go past it when we noticed it’s a main and dessert all in one, with a traditional cornish pasty for 2/3 and a sweet apple pastry at the end!
I don’t eat meat so I couldn’t try it, but Joe gave it a go and said the sweet end was the best! Let us know if you agree if you give it a try!
5. Catch a sunrise at the Razorback Lookout
The Razorback Lookout is the most famous viewpoint in the Flinders and it’s no surprise, with a spectacular lofty view over the Heysen Range. The lookout gives you a fantastic view of the road curving its way through the ranges in what must be one of the prettiest routes in the area.
We visited at both sunrise and sunset and both were beautiful, so if you’re not keen on an early start come for sunset instead.
The reason we went for sunrise is because the early morning light hits the mountain tops giving an extra special glow to photos, although it does take a little while after the sun rises for the road to come out of the shadows.
Whatever time you come to this lookout it will blow you away. There’s only room for a few cars but we got a spot every time we visited without issues.
The lookout is 25km and roughly 35 minutes from Wilpena Pound Resort. We highly recommend stopping at the Bunyeroo Lookout on the way as it is only one minute away from the Razorback Lookout and also provides a stunning view.
The view from Bunyeroo Lookout
6. Check out the beautifully preserved Aboriginal rock art at Arkaroo Rock
The Flinders has many, many rock art sites, but one of the easiest to access independently is Arkaroo Rock, just a 15 minute drive from Wilpena Pound.
The paintings are on the underside of a huge rock which has prevented them from getting too much sun damage, leaving them remarkably well preserved, especially as some are over 6,000 years old!
There is a metal fence surrounding them for their protection, but there are plenty of gaps big enough to take some lovely photos.
There is no information board at the site to help you identify the pictures you’re looking at, so if you’re like us and feeling curious, take a photo of our photo (lol) which we took at Stokes Hills to help you work out what some of the pictures symbolise.
The circuit walk that takes you there is just over 3km and easy. We’ve got a detailed guide to the walk and also a lovely spot to go for sunset in this post.
7. Step back in time by 650 million years at Brachina Gorge
Brachina Gorge Geological Trail is a 20km drive which takes you on a journey through the geological history of the area, where some of the rocks and fossils are a staggering 650 million years old!
There are lots of information boards all the way along, which give details on the time period of the rocks you are looking at, but we’ll be honest with you, our favourite part about it was the scenery!
From the start it’s very pretty, but when you get into the narrow gorge itself I felt like I had landed back in the Middle East! The towering red canyon walls are staggeringly dramatic and the surrounding mountains give you the feeling of being in a wild and remote desert.
I loved it so much that I insisted we drive through it several times! And that’s coming from someone who originally was only doing it because at 40C, it was too hot to hike that day!
Even if fossils and rocks don’t float your boat, you have to drive through the gorge! If you’re around in the early morning or late afternoon you might even spot one of the adorable Yellow footed rock wallabies.
The trail is on a dirt road but at time of writing it was graded very well much of the way, although the bit through the narrow gorge has some slightly bigger rocks to traverse. You could probably get away with it in a 2WD but whether you’d want to is another matter!
8. Catch a sunset from Stokes Hill
For huge panoramic views of Wilpena Pound and the Chace, Elder, Heysen and Bunker Ranges, head for Stokes Hill. This hilltop lookout offers 360 degree views, with mountains as far as the eye can see. It’s a truly beautiful view and even more special in the soft light of sunset.
As well as a fabulous view of the sunset there are also some really good information boards telling Adnyamathanha dreamtime stories which I found fascinating. It’s where I took the photo of the Aboriginal art symbols which later turned out to be very useful at Arkaroo Rock.
You can also come up here with a local Adnyamathanha guide which we didn’t know beforehand, but met at the top, it would definitely bring added depth to the experience.
The lookout is 20km and roughly 20 minutes from Wilpena Pound Resort.
9. Scale Mount Ohlssen Bagge for the best view in the Flinders
Of all the walks we did in the Flinders, Mount Ohlssen Bagge comes out on top when it comes to views! It really is incredible from the summit, with vast, uninterrupted views and lots of room to sit and take it all in. The climb to get there is a short sharp slog with the occasional scramble, but one thing’s for sure it is never boring!
The deep red mountains towering above you come gratifyingly closer with every step, although we could have done without the markers every 200m reminding us just how slowly we were progressing!
It’s an adventurous walk without being technically difficult in any way and it reminded us of hiking in Arizona, in both trail style and scenery, which is pretty much the highest praise we can give!
We’ve covered all the details including photos of any scrambles in this dedicated guide.
10. Drive through the picturesque Bunyeroo Gorge
If you only have time for one gorge in the Wilpena area, make it Brachina. However, if time is in your favour then it is well worth visiting Bunyeroo Gorge too. It’s quieter than Brachina and also home to a colony of Yellow footed rock wallabies.
The gorge is quite different to Brachina with yellow rather than red walls and more in the way of trees and plants.
If you carry on to Wilpena all the way along the Bunyeroo Road you’ll also pass by Razorback Lookout and Bunyeroo Valley Lookout, which is well worth a stop. You have to walk a few hundred metres from the car park to reach Bunyeroo Valley Lookout, but each step offers a more wonderful view than the last.
The view from Bunyeroo Lookout
The Bunyeroo Gorge drive is all on gravel road, but again it was in pretty good condition on our visit and you don’t need a 4WD. Just drive slowly on the rougher patches, which is a good call whatever car you are in as the area has a lot of wildlife.
We also saw lots of roos as well as a adorable little emu family along this road which made my day!
11. Soar over the pound on a scenic flight
This is the only thing on this list that we didn’t get to experience ourselves. We heard from so many people who did though and they described it as a highlight of the area. I can only imagine how magical this whole landscape looks from above, particularly in the early morning light.
Small plane flights last between 20 minutes and a staggering 4 hours which takes you over Lake Eyre. We met people who did the 20 minute version and felt like it was enough time to get some spectacular photos and a good overview of the whole area.
Wilpena Pound Resort operates the small planes, and Rawnsley Park uses helicopters. Minute for minute, as always, small planes are cheaper than helis, although as Rawnsley Park offers 10 minute rides that is the cheapest option overall.
The best things to do in the Southern Flinders Ranges
12. Spot the rare Yellow footed rock wallabies at Warren Gorge
We’d tried to see them in a few places in the Flinders Ranges, but it was the pretty little Warren Gorge just outside Quorn where we finally spotted the elusive Yellow footed rock wallabies! They are the most unusual looking wallabies we’ve ever seen, with really striking striped tails and very delicate faces. We were lucky enough to spot a mum and joey grazing beside the rocks right inside the gorge walls.
If you’re quiet and don’t make any sudden movements you can happily observe them for a while. We headed to the gorge just before sunset, and found them not long after the sun had gone down, but early morning should be just as good.
Don’t be fooled by the profusion of Euros who also live in the area and can rock hop with the best of them. The wallabies are very distinctive looking and you’ll know you’ve found them by the unique tails.
The best place to park is at the car park just beyond the gorge, you can then head back through the gorge on foot - which only takes around five minutes. If you’re keen for a longer walk there is also a 5.2km loop track that gets rave reviews but we didn’t have time to do.
Watch out if driving back to Quorn in the dark though, there are an insane amount of kamikaze roos, so you’ll want to drive really slowly!
13. Adventure through a sensational slot canyon
We had no idea that an incredible slot canyon that gave us all the American Southwest vibes was right here in South Australia! Aptly named The Narrows, at Alligator Gorge, you’ll find a long narrow slot canyon with looming red walls and a river flowing through it. It’s a walk to remember.
We visited after heavy rainfall so we had some pretty deep (above the knee) sections to traverse which was a lot of fun. I imagine it can get pretty shallow if there hasn’t been any rain in a while, but either way it will still be beautiful.
Wading through the water in-between the canyon walls was such an amazing experience, I had to do it several times! We saw people turn back when they saw they’d have to walk through the water, but trust us on this one, that is half the fun!
Don’t even think about it, wade straight in and within minutes you’ll have forgotten about the soggy boots and in my case wet trousers and soak up the magical atmosphere of the gorge.
The walk is only 1.1km each way and quite easy, although there are rocks in the water to be aware of. We’ve gone over all the details, including the longer circuit walk you can do here in this guide.
14. Indulge in the Quandong pie at the Quandong Cafe, Quorn
Travel anywhere in the Flinders and you’ll probably see a lot of quandong on the menu, but get chatting to anyone in the area and they’ll tell you to head to the Quandong Cafe to order a slice of the pie. And having done just that, we couldn’t disagree, it’s absolutely delicious.
I can’t really describe what quandong tastes like but it’s sweet and sour all at once and definitely moreish! The pie comes swimming in cream, which I’m on board with, but if you’re not a fan ask for no cream because you really can’t avoid it!
15. Learn from the locals at the Quorn silo show
The Quorn silo show is a free light show projected on the town’s silo every evening (exact times vary according to time of year). There are benches set out and you can sit under the stars and enjoy a mix of educational programs and local photographers pictures showcasing top spots and wildlife found around the Flinders.
On our visit the main feature was about the importance of water in this dry, arid area which I found really enlightening. It was followed by a sweet feature on the women of Quorn’s contribution to the Second World War effort.
The photographs then follow the feature presentations. I think the features change from time to time but I’m sure they are all worth seeing. The whole thing lasted around an hour from memory but you could skip some of the photos if that’s too long.
One thing to note is that it can get very cold! We went woefully underdressed in November, with jeans and a fleece, others arrived in winter coats and beanies and we were very jealous! It was absolutely freezing!
16. Visit the remains of an old homestead at the Kanyaka Ruins
In its heyday in 1864 the Kanyaka Station was home to around 40,000 sheep as well as a small community of people living what must have been a very remote life. It really does feel like the middle of nowhere! The woolshed and homestead are now just ruins, but they are quite a bit more intact than any others we saw in the Flinders (we saw dozens of them scattered through the ranges during our trip).
There are signs up detailing what the remains are, as well as old photographs showing what it used to look like back in the day. It was more like a small village and it’s an atmospheric spot.
If you have more time you can walk the 20 minutes each way to check out Death Rock at the Kanyaka Waterhole. It’s a permanent water source and the story goes that local Indigenous people used to bring the dying here to see out their last hours in the shade of the rock.
I was the only one at the rock and it had forlorn air, but that might be because I’d already read about the significance of the spot. If you don’t want to walk from the homestead you can also drive a little further along the main road and then pull into the car park for the waterhole, from which it’s only a five minute walk (though the sign says 10).
17. Try the Flinders best pies at Stone Hut Bakery
We actually spent the night at the cute Stone Hut Cottages on our way to Alligator Gorge and it’s a lovely place to break the journey between Adelaide and Wilpena Pound. The cottages were very good value.
However the main reason people stop here are for the pies! Known as the best in the Flinders we kept hearing about it from people on The Ghan when we said we were headed to the Flinders next.
Joe said the beef pie was the best he’s had in Australia, but if you’re feeling more adventurous they had more unusual options like croc too! Just don’t get the veggie one because after all the hype and how good Joe’s was I thought it was bland and a bit of a let down!
The Stone Hut Bakery is on the road between Adelaide and Wilpena Pound, around 2.5 hours before the Pound. It’s around 30 minutes from Melrose, which is the closest town to the Narrows walk.
Where to stay in the Flinders Ranges
Wilpena Pound Resort
We stayed in Wilpena Pound Resort and were very happy with it. We were in the cheapest rooms which were very dated, but large and clean. Rooms with a kitchen would be ideal if you’re staying a few nights because food options in the area are extremely limited.
Check the latest prices and reviews on:
Rawnsley Park Station
Rawnsley Park Station has good reviews and a wide range of rooms from basic through to fancier villas. We heard good things about it from others but didn’t get a chance to experience it for ourselves. Their restaurant has very good reviews but can be hard to get in to (we couldn’t).
Check the latest prices and reviews on:
Essential information about visiting the Flinders Ranges
Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park entry fee
To enter the Ikara Flinders Ranges National Park, which covers many of the activities we have listed here, you need to buy a parks pass.
You can buy daily tickets which are $11 per vehicle, or you can buy a two month SA parks pass which is what we did as we knew we would be in and out of the parks for a couple of weeks, that pass is $44. You can also buy an annual pass which costs $99 which covers all SA parks, or one solely for the Ikara Flinders Ranges National Park which costs $66.
As there are so many choices and prices might change, you can check out all the options and book the passes here.
Summer hiking trail closures
Some of the more strenuous hiking trails around Wilpena Pound close during the summer months, exact dates can vary but it tends to be between December and February. For the hikes we have listed in this post it affects St Mary Peak and Mount Ohlssen Bagge. As I had heard that they sometimes close trails in November I emailed Wilpena Pound Resort before booking to check the exact closure dates for this year and it was December 1st. I’d recommend emailing them to check if you’re planning a visit close to summer.
Wildlife on the roads
If you’re driving almost anywhere in the Flinders area, but particularly around Wilpena and the gorges, you’ll likely see a lot of wildlife on the roads. Roos tend to jump in front of your car with no warning so you’ll definitely want to be driving a lot slower than the speed limit!
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What’s your favourite thing to do in the Flinders Ranges? Let us know in the comments below!
