Haystacks is one of the best walks in the Lake District. If you only have one day in Buttermere, there is no better way to spend it. The views are sensational, the trail is varied and fun, and the short detours you can make are second to none. I can’t think of another walk in the Lakes which is a mere five miles long, yet boasts several mountain top tarns, two sets of infinity pools and a secret bothy!
It’s a truly unmissable walk and if you still aren’t 100% convinced, then know that it’s where Alfred Wainwright had his ashes scattered, so you know it’s going to be a special place.
Here’s everything you know about the Haystacks circular walk.
The Haystacks Walk
The stats
Distance: 5.3 mile (8.65km) circuit
Elevation gain: 550m
Difficulty: Moderate
Summary: This particular route up Haystacks (there is an easier route from Honister Pass) does have a fair amount of uphill track to cover and includes a couple of short scrambly sections. These are easy scrambles when dry, but would warrant extra caution if wet. The terrain throughout much of the walk is rocky, but it’s mostly small stones rather than big rocks.
The descent is generally pretty good, and rarely slippery when dry. Only short sections are steep and no part of the descent is very steep.
Finding the infinity pools and bothy require walking a very short distance off the main trail, but it’s not difficult.
Starting the trail
From the Gatesgarth car park (full details at the end of the post) the walk heads over the road and through a couple of gates. The flat gravel path takes you inbetween farmland, with terrific views of Haystacks right from the off.
After 600m of flat and leisurely track, the climb begins. The first bit is steep, but on well made stone steps. After 150m you’ll reach a junction.
The path to Haystacks is to the left, however, this is where you could make your first detour if you wanted to make a day of it. This is a longer detour than the others at 700m each way, but if you’re up for it, you’ll get to experience some of the quietest infinity pools in the Lake District.
These secret turquoise plunge pools have the most fabulous view and are great for a refreshing dip. I won’t go into all the details here or this post will get very long, but directions for exactly how to find them from the junction can be found in this post.
The real climb begins
From the junction, the path to Haystacks heads left and continues to climb. The path is a mix of gravel and some large smooth stones, which are a bit like paving. It’s quite steep for the first 250m before the gradient slackens a little.
The views back over Buttermere Lake are glorious even from this early stage in the walk. The trail continues climbing for another 250m before you pass through a wooden gate (1.2km into the walk) and from here you’ll get a good view of your destination, Haystacks.
The trail steepens again, but the views are fantastic in every direction, more than making up for it.
After 350m there is a brief respite as the path flattens and the scenery feels very rugged and imposing. The track will soon begin ascending again and you’ll cross over a small stream (with rocks to use as stepping stones).
The path does deteriorate a bit after this point, the stones steps are good at first, but then the track becomes quite rubbly.
That’s why we prefer ascending Haystacks on this route and descending via the gentler slopes on the other side of the mountain. The rocky and rubbly terrain lasts for about 350m before you reach another little break in the climb.
If you’re walking in August the heather bloom along this section is very pretty, although it’s nothing on what’s to come when you get to the top of Haystacks!
If you wanted a little break, there are plenty of rocks to sit on before you tackle climbing the hump which is directly in front of you - it’s not Haystacks, but it does get you one step closer.
Climbing the humps, the Haystacks scrambles
You’ll begin climbing the first hump 2.4km into the walk and at first the path is made up of good stone steps. After a couple of hundred metres there are three short scrambles, well let’s say rough track. I didn’t have to use my hands, but it is definitely climbing up rocks slabs as opposed to a proper walking track.
These little climbs are easy when dry, but I imagine could be quite slick when wet. This section lasts for 250m before there’s a little flat dip and you begin ascending the next hill.
The views throughout this whole section are simply sensational. You can see Buttermere Lake and Crummock Water and the rugged fells make the whole scene very dramatic.
We’ve walked this trail on a good day like you can see in the photos, and on a very moody grey day and the views in both conditions look fabulous.
The next couple of hills to climb have a bit more rocky terrain and some scrambling required. I needed to use my hands at points, but I would still say it’s easy when dry - and I am definitely not an experienced scrambler.
If you’ve never done any scrambling at all, take it slowly and use your hands.
Although broken up by some normal walking track, the rocky/scrambly sections last for 500m (though only small portions of this are scrambling that might require hands).
There are occasional cairns marking the best route along this rocky section, so look out for that to keep on the easiest path, if you stray you could end up on more challenging terrain.
Reaching the top of Haystacks
After the rocky section ends (3.2km into the walk) you’ll reach an unnamed tarn. The top of Haystacks is up on the rocks above this tarn.
There isn’t a big flat summit like you’ll find on many fells, the real beauty of Haystacks is actually a little way down from the summit marker.
From here you can see into the neighbouring valley of Ennerdale and the sea beyond, as well as the summits of famous Lakeland fells, such as Pillar.
You’ll descend from the top of Haystacks on a narrow grassy path between the heather. You can see the blue water of Innominate Tarn sparkling in the distance (ironically innominate means unnamed, so there’s two unnamed tarns on Haystacks!).
The descent is generally easy, however there is one short rocky section which is a little loose, but overall it’s smooth sailing.
Once you hit flatter ground it can get a touch boggy, but there are always rocks to use to avoid the mud. You’ll reach the shores of Innominate Tarn 600m after leaving the first tarn. The ground directly around Innominate Tarn is a little watery, but not too bad.
The whole route to the tarn is glorious, especially in August as the heather is spectacular all the way along the path and makes the already beautiful scenery even more special.
The tarn itself is also gorgeous and it’s here that Wainwright had his ashes scattered.
Beginning the descent
After walking along the path beside the tarn you’ll begin the descent. It’s on a mix of good stone steps and gravel path, and for the most part it’s quite gentle.
The views are just as fabulous on this side of the mountain and the steep cliffs make it very dramatic.
A few hundred metres into the descent you’ll cross the beck. There are plenty of rocks to use as stepping stones.
Just 100m from here and just off the track (to the right, you can’t miss it) is another tarn and this time it has a name, Blackbeck Tarn (4.4km into the walk).
As much as I love Innominate Tarn, Blackbeck is my favourite. Maybe it was the light, maybe it was the heather, or maybe it’s just magical always, but Blackbeck Tarn stole my heart. It’s just so beautiful.
The descent continues and finding Warnscale Bothy
On leaving the tarn and rejoining the main path, you have a brief ascent on stone steps before it becomes a stony path and the climb becomes more gentle.
After a few hundred metres you’ll stop heading uphill and the descent continues. The path is quite rocky, but it’s not too bad and wasn’t slippery at all when dry.
The descent is gentle and crosses a small stream at the 5.2km mark. Just 200m beyond the stream is where you can turn off to reach Warnscale Bothy. The narrow path is not overly obvious, but if you know to look out for it 200m after the stream crossing you won’t miss it.
The path will be wet and boggy, but it didn’t flood our boots, even in times of heavy rainfall. If you use this route to the bothy you are 450m away and exact directions and coordinates are in this post. There is an alternative, which we think is actually a bit easier further along the main track, which we’ll come to next.
If you’re not fussed about the bothy, or to use the alternative route, continue for another 100m along the main path. You’ll arrive at a larger stream crossing.
Depending on water levels this one requires more care as some of the rocks may become submerged, making it trickier to cross. On our most recent visit they were all exposed, so we crossed easily.
Once you’ve crossed you could make yet another fun detour 50m later. This one is 200m each way and leads right, to Dubs Hut, another cool Lake District bothy.
If not, head left to continue on the main circuit. There’s a long flat gravel path following the river. After a couple of hundred metres there is one short section of loose rock as you begin to descend, but then the path gets better again.
Just 350m after the junction - where you could have turned right to see Dubs Hut (5.9km into the walk) - there is an obvious path that goes downhill to the river on the left. This is the alternate route to Warnscale Bothy.
It does require crossing the beck and walking uphill, but is a more direct route to the bothy, so you shouldn’t have any trouble finding it.
Finishing the descent and finding the infinity pool
Continuing along the main trail the views are absolutely stunning. The descent is quite gentle and the path is generally good.
The fells feel like they’re looming over you and you’ll soon get some good views over the lake again too.
Around halfway through this last part of the descent the terrain does get a bit rockier and this can feel quite tedious as you’re nearing the end of the walk.
For the most part it didn’t feel slippery, but there were one or two very short sections which were loose gravel. Just watch your step on these steeper bits.
As the descent finishes you’ll reach a grassy path and 7.1km into the walk you’ll see a path on the left, which is lined with bracken on both sides. This leads to a small wooden bridge - you can’t miss it if you know to keep an eye out for it.
This will lead you to the Buttermere infinity pool and many more swimming holes besides. We have a guide to all the pools and the coordinates for the main one in this post.
Completing the circuit
The last part of the walk is very easy because the path is better and it’s so gentle. You continue on the main trail with lovely views ahead to Buttermere Lake.
We hit this section around sunset which was just glorious. The path is gravel and either flat or ever so gently downhill all the way to the road, which is 1.4km after the junction with the path to the wooden bridge.
It’s a very leisurely end to the walk, yet still scenic. Once you reach the road you head left and you’re now just a couple of minutes from the Gatesgarth car park. If you had more energy and time to spare you could now do a circuit of the lake which is 4.5 miles (7.2km)!
Getting to the car park for Haystacks
By car and parking
The closest car park to the trailhead is Gatesgarth Farm, postcode CA13 9XA. There’s a flat rate of £4 to park for 24 hours. You could try and park near Buttermere village for free, but you have to walk further and it’s hard to get a spot on weekends and during the school holidays.
There are no facilities at the car park, and that includes toilets.
Buttermere is a 30 minute drive from Keswick, 30 minutes from Cockermouth and 1 hour from Ambleside.
By public transport
The best way to get to the trailhead at Gatesgarth by bus is to hop on the Borrowdale Bus (77A) from Keswick. This departs every 30 minutes from the bus stop by Booths and takes approximately 45 minutes.
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