The Giza pyramids are fabulous, there’s no doubt about it. They’re a world wonder for a reason. But what if I were to tell you that just outside Giza you’ll find the oldest pyramids in the world? But it’s not their age that had us captivated, it was the experience exploring them. This is the real deal. The Egypt you dream of before visiting, and how you hoped the Giza pyramids would be: ancient monuments in the middle of the desert, miles away from civilisation.
The pyramids of Dahshur feel like a proper adventure, and if you delve into their depths it makes for a real Indiana Jones experience. But even if the thought of crawling into the bowels of the pyramids is wholly unappealing, simply seeing them from the outside is magical.
There are no crowds, no one hassling you to take a camel ride, or buy a souvenir, and you’re actually out in the desert. There’s not a pizza hut in sight! Trust me, it’s one of Egypt’s unmissable experiences and a very easy day trip from Cairo.
Here’s what to expect when visiting the pyramids of Dahshur without a tour.
To tour or not to tour?
We aren’t great lovers of tours. In fact, if there is ever the option to do things independently, we will always choose it.
Unlike places such as the canyons in the Sinai Desert - where you can’t get around without a guide - Dahshur is very easy to do alone, and as mentioned above, you don’t get hassled here by camel riders or souvenir sellers, so it’s a relaxed experience.
You can hire a guide if you prefer, but it’s certainly not essential. Going alone also means you choose how long you spend at each stop.
What you will need is a taxi. Whilst you could use Uber to get to Dahshur, you will benefit from having a car to get you between the two main pyramids - Red Pyramid and Bent Pyramid. You would likely also wait a long time for a ride back, if you can even get an Uber back from here!
The Red Pyramid at Dahshur
It’s easiest to negotiate for a taxi in Cairo or Giza and include wait time. Dahshur works well when combined with Memphis and Saqqara to make a full day trip. In the end we just opted for Saqqara and Dahshur as we ran out of time for Memphis.
You’ll want to haggle for a day rate and make sure you agree the amount of wait time too, or you might get stung on your return. Our trip lasted about 7 hours, but honestly that wasn’t long enough (our first driver got a flat tyre, so we ended up leaving much later than planned which meant we ran out of daylight hours).
Unless you know you’re usually pretty quick when sightseeing, I’d recommend having at least 8 hours, but preferably longer. The journey to Dahshur is around 45 minutes from Giza and 55 minutes from downtown Cairo. Saqqara is located on the way back to either city.
The Step Pyramid of Djoser at Saqqara
We probably paid over the odds for our trip because we had to find someone within the hour. We paid 700 EGP ($29 USD) for a private car for four of us at time of writing (December 2022).
This was for 7 hours as that was the max time we had. Some companies start with extremely high rates for this trip, so haggle hard if you don’t want to pay well over the odds.
Look out for the carpet ‘school’ that your taxi driver may suddenly want to include in your itinerary. As you might expect, this is really just a chance to try and sell you some carpets. Just decline getting out the car if you don’t want to go through the charade.
The Bent Pyramid at Dahshur
The Dahshur Pyramids experience
Red Pyramid: the exterior
Red Pyramid is said to be the oldest true pyramid (smooth sided) in the world at over 4,500 years old. It is the third largest pyramid in Egypt and picture perfect. The Red Pyramid was built by the pharaoh Sneferu, who had attempted to build a perfect pyramid twice, before finally cracking it with this one.
Seeing it for the first time was a real wow moment, and we especially loved that it’s out in the desert rather than on the edge of the city like the ones at Giza.
You can almost drive right up to Red Pyramid, so if you don’t want to walk much you can still get fantastic views within just a few minutes. If you’re happy to walk more, you can head right the way around the pyramid, which is well worth doing for the chance to see it from every angle.
There are a couple of rudimentary shelters if you want a break from the sun or wind.
Red Pyramid: the interior
What to know before you go inside
Here’s where things can get a little more adventurous. You can actually visit the tomb inside the very depths of the pyramid itself. You can also do this at the Giza pyramids, but the experience at Red Pyramid is more rustic. We went inside the Dahshur pyramids first and then the Great Pyramid later, and found the Great Pyramid very easy by comparison.
However, of the two Dahshur pyramids you can go into, Red Pyramid is the easier option, so if you’re claustrophobic or a little unsure, definitely try Red Pyramid first. On the subject of claustrophobia, I’d say if it’s very mild, you can probably manage, but otherwise it will be a real test and wholly unenjoyable.
I can sometimes get a little bit funny in confined spaces and I was ok, but it’s hot and tight inside at points. Lighting wise, it’s dim, but lit well enough that you don’t need your own light source - although I was glad to have my phone because if the lights had gone out I shudder to think what that would be like!
If all that rules it out for you, you can go into the tomb in the Step Pyramid at Saqqara, this one has a ceiling at head height and no tight spaces whatsoever.
Venturing inside the Red Pyramid
The first thing to note is that you want to wear clothes you don’t mind getting very dusty!
You’ll start by climbing up a series of steps to reach the entrance. They are steepish, but in good condition and it’s only 150m to the entrance.
You then need to head down the long steep tunnel into the pyramid itself. This is on a wooden ramp with slats to make it easier, and you’ll find it easiest to go backwards as you would with a ladder.
There are handrails on both sides and the wood is not slippery.
The ceiling height requires you to crouch at all times. You can take a break by sitting on the slats if you need. If you have a backpack, you’ll need to put it on your front, as there’s not enough space for it on your back. Unless you really need it, we’d recommend leaving it with your driver.
There is two way traffic along the shaft, but it’s quiet, so nothing like the experience of going into the Great Pyramid.
The thing that will probably strike you the most is the heat. It was absolutely boiling. We were dripping in sweat just descending, so it wasn’t about the exercise! Although that’s not particularly pleasant, it did make it feel like we were really going into the depths of the pyramid and it was pretty exciting.
Once you’ve descended the steep ramp you’ll then walk through a passageway with a much higher ceiling height and into a chamber, before passing under a low, but very short passage into another chamber (with a high ceiling).
From here you have several wooden staircases to climb, all with a normal ceiling height. You then have another passage, which is not too tight, before you arrive in the tomb.
There’s actually nothing to see in the tomb itself, the sarcophagus is gone and there are no paintings. This is definitely one of those experiences that’s all about the journey and not the destination!
Once you’re ready, you head back the same way. It’s harder going up, not just because it’s steep, but because it’s a less comfortable hunch when heading uphill.
It’s totally worth it though and the whole thing was much more rustic and fun than I was expecting. However, it gets even more adventurous in the Bent Pyramid….
The Bent Pyramid
Bent Pyramid: the exterior
It’s a very short drive (from memory less than five minutes) between Red Pyramid and Bent Pyramid. It’s then slightly further to reach Bent Pyramid than Red Pyramid on foot, but still only around a five minute walk.
Bent Pyramid is not your picture perfect pyramid. This was one of Sneferu’s early attempts, which went wrong as they started building at a 53 degree angle which caused structural instability. As you can see from the outside, they had to change the angle to ensure it didn’t collapse in on itself, forming the Bent Pyramid.
Unlike many of the pyramids in Egypt, the Bent Pyramid has a lot of its original limestone casing.
The combination makes it less visually appealing, but it’s still well worth seeing. You can go around the full exterior again and there are some great views looking back towards Red Pyramid. If you have a zoom lens you can get some fantastic shots of Red Pyramid from here, as you get a great perspective looking out across the desert.
Bent Pyramid: the interior
What to expect
The Bent Pyramid only opened in 2019 and none of the other four pyramid tombs we’ve visited compare to it. It’s hard to describe in words the feeling you get inside, but it’s like you’ve stepped onto the set of The Mummy! I said that visiting the pyramids of Dahshur in general feels like the ancient Egypt of your dreams, but reaching the tomb of Bent Pyramid really takes it to the next level.
The heat, the never ending steep low descent, the tunnels that have you crawling on your hands and knees, and even the bat filled chamber at the end make it a truly exciting experience. And it was a privilege to experience it at all because we met an Egyptologist who was on his 50th trip to Egypt and it was the first time the tomb had ever been open!
I’m not going to tell you I wasn’t relieved to reach fresh air again at the end, but the whole experience is one of my favourites of our month in Egypt.
Starting the journey inside the Bent Pyramid
Onto the details. You have a couple of staircases to climb to reach the entrance and even this bit was cool as you can look at some of the huge stones up close. You then arrive at the entrance leading down into the pyramid.
As with Red Pyramid, it’s an inferno in there and the ceiling height when descending is even lower. I bumped my head three times because I couldn’t quite get the right level of hunch for long enough. The descent lasts for 200m, but it felt like longer simply because you had to crouch so much!
As with Red Pyramid there are handrails on both sides and the slats are not slippery. As you descend, you see the light of the outside world get further and further away and I remember thinking a power cut here would be the stuff of horror movies!
Once you’ve descended you’ll reach several staircases heading uphill, just like at Red Pyramid. The ceiling height is high here, so enjoy it because the narrowest bits are yet to come!
The final stretch to the burial chamber
The first tunnel is low, but you can crouch your way through, the second longer tunnel had me crawling on my hands and knees.
It doesn’t last that long, but when you’re on your hands and knees on hard stone it felt like enough!
You then emerge into a passage with good ceiling height again and head left, towards the final staircase.
You’ll then find yourself in the empty tomb, again there is no sarcophagus or paintings. Having said that it’s not totally empty as there is a colony of tiny bats!
Happily they’re just roosting on the walls, not flying around the chamber! I love bats, but I think after all the crouching and tight spaces arriving to a room of flapping bats would be too much!
Once you’re ready, you need to begin the journey out. The climb up to the entrance is really steep, especially when you have to do it at such an angle. I alternated between crouching and crawling and will admit to needing a couple of breathers along the way!
It was a truly memorable way to end our morning in Dahshur and in my opinion a much cooler experience than the tomb at the Great Pyramid - although I was glad to do that too!
The Black Pyramid
The Black Pyramid can sadly only be viewed from the Bent Pyramid. You’ll need a good zoom lens to get any pictures where it doesn’t look tiny! My favourite view of it was actually from the staircases leading up to Bent Pyramid.
Even if you have no intention of going inside the pyramid itself, it’s worth climbing the first couple of staircases for the view. It’s a fun angle where you can see the Black Pyramid and the side of the Bent Pyramid together.
Dahshur pyramids entry fee
At time of writing a ticket to Dahshur is just 60 EGP (USD $2.50). You don’t pay anything extra to enter the pyramid tombs, and we were not asked for tips or hassled in any way by any of the tomb guardians.
It’s probably the best $2.50 we spent in Egypt! Do bring cash though because they weren’t accepting card on our visit.
Visiting Saqqara
If you have more than a half day, then we’d highly recommend combining a visit to Dahshur with Saqqara, there’s just 12km between them. If you have a full day, then you can also include Memphis.
Saqqara is a very significant place in ancient Egyptian history as it was the necropolis (burial area) of the old capital of Memphis, and has the tombs of many of the pharaohs of the Old Kingdom, who ruled over Egypt more than 4,500 years ago.
The centrepiece is the Step Pyramid of Djoser, which is not only the oldest pyramid, but also the oldest complete stone building in the world. The whole area of Saqqara is still being excavated and archaeologists are still uncovering tombs and objects underneath the sand.
There’s an awful lot to see at Saqqara and we barely scratched the surface, which is why we’re not going to write a separate article.
The Step Pyrmaid of Djoser: the exterior
The Step Pyramid of Djoser dominates the skyline at Saqqara and it’s surrounded by various ruins and buildings that add to the story of the pyramid.
There’s a lot to take in, so we’d recommend spending time first walking the circuit of the pyramid, starting at the western side. You’ll get a great view of the pyramid from the ridge on the western side. It’s a world away from the crowds and camel sellers who seem to congregate on the southern side.
While on the ridge, have a look west and you’ll see three smaller pyramids in the distance (we’ve tried to find out what they are, but still don’t know! If you do, please let us know in the comments).
From here, descend the ridge and walk to the far side of the northern face of the pyramid. You’ll find two holes cut into a block, and when you look in you’ll see a statue of Djoser, the pharaoh buried in the pyramid.
It’s believed that this was created so Djoser could watch the north star pass, aiding his passage into the underworld.
Finally, the house of the north court on the eastern side of the pyramid has some graffiti from an ancient Egyptian tourist! It’s funny to think that even 3,000 years ago, people would travel to see the sights, and feel it necessary to leave their mark. There are dirty and scratched plastic sheets in front of the text, but you can still see it.
Once you’ve done the full loop, head to the stairs on the southern side to go inside the tomb.
Going inside the Step Pyramid of Djoser
If you haven’t gone into one of the tombs at Dahshur, then it’s worth going into the one at the step pyramid. However if you have visited one of the others you might be disappointed, the route to the tomb at Saqqara is very manicured.
The ceiling is head height and then higher, and it’s a 50m flat walk. It doesn’t have the same rustic feel as the Dahshur pyramids at all. It’s an extra 100 EGP ($4 USD) to get into the tomb, so depending on your budget it may not be worth it.
The Tomb of Ti
We also visited the tomb of Ti which was fantastic (it’s a few minutes drive from the step pyramid). It’s easy to access and has some well preserved paintings. It’s not quite as good as those you see in the Valley of the Kings or Queens, but if you aren’t planning on going to Luxor, then it’s well worth a look.
You can even go through a low passage to see the sarcophagus, underneath the mastaba.
There is much more to see at Saqqara, but that will have to be for another visit!
Entry fee for Saqqara
Before visiting Saqqara, we recommend reading up on all the sites and deciding which you want to visit. Unlike Dahshur, each site beyond the main pyramid has a fee and the ticket office is a short drive from the sites. You’ll want to purchase all the tickets you need before you begin exploring.
Saqqara is more popular than Dahshur, so the entry fee is more expensive (as you’d expect). At time of writing, the standard entry ticket is EGP 200 (USD $8) per person. This is something everyone has to buy, as well as EGP 10 (40c) per group for your taxi driver. As with a lot of sites in Egypt, you no longer have to pay for photography (although rules change on this constantly).
This will allow you to see the outside of almost everything in Saqqara, but if you want to go inside Djoser’s Pyramid or the Serapeum, you will need to pay extra. You can see a full list of the costs below.
Where to stay in Cairo / Giza
Guardian Guesthouse
Few hotels in the world have a view that can rival Guardian Guesthouse. Situated just metres from the entrance to the pyramid complex, the best rooms here have head on Sphinx views, with the pyramids behind it. Sunset from the room is simply magical and you can even get a free glimpse of the sound and light show in the evening from the hotel rooftop.
It’s also one of the few places in Giza that is almost entirely away from the car horns and engine noise of Giza, as it’s tucked away beside the Sphinx, which is completely dead when it’s closed. The rooms are dated, but clean and comfy enough.
Check the latest reviews & prices on:
Marriott Mena House
The Marriott Mena is what pyramid dreams are made of. This historic hotel is situated within walking distance of the entrance to the Pyramids and has hosted some of the most famous people in the world, including US Presidents, movie stars, writers and musicians.
The view from the grounds are spectacular, with Khufu’s and Khafre’s pyramids overlooking the green oasis of Mena House.
If you’ve got the budget, this is the place to stay in Giza.
Check the latest prices & reviews on:
This post may contain affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, that we will earn a small commission if you click through and decide to make a purchase. This helps towards the costs of running our website. Thanks for your support!
