We were lucky enough to spend a couple of weeks in Cappadocia and after lots of exploring we can truly say what you’ll find on this itinerary are the very best things to do in the region on a short trip.
We'll share the best place to watch balloons at sunrise, where you can climb inside fairy chimneys, how to hike through a valley of pink cliffs, where to watch sunset at a cafe on the edge of a cliff and which valleys have the best rock churches and the least crowds.
Here’s our perfect three day Cappadocia itinerary.
Before you set off
We strongly recommend hiring a car or a driver if you plan on visiting Cappadocia. You can visit a lot of the places around Goreme on foot, but the majority of sights and amazing places to visit will require driving.
The great news is that the roads around Cappadocia are in great condition and are very quiet. In Turkey you drive on the right hand side of the road, which is easy for people from most countries! Rental cars are also pretty cheap in Turkey (we hired ours for less than $15 per day) which made getting around a breeze. We hired with Rental Cars.com, which got us the bargain rate!
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Day one - The Fairy Chimneys
Stroll through the famous Love Valley
Distance from Goreme: 5 km (9 minute drive)
Start your day by heading to one of the more famous valleys in the region, Love Valley. Most people tend to head to see the valley from above where there are lots of swings, love seats and ATV’s whizzing past. We weren’t huge fans of this area and would instead recommend walking through the valley floor amongst the rock formations themselves.
You can walk right up to the strange shaped rocks and there are a few small caves to explore. As with almost everywhere in Cappadocia you are given free rein to wander as you wish so you can easily find spots without anyone else around.
You can walk through the best of the formations in around 20 minutes, and it’s an easy and predominantly flat stroll. If you want a longer walk you can hike to Uchisar Castle which is around 5km away.
Here’s a map for where to start the Love Valley hike.
Love Valley has no entrance fee.
Escape the crowds at the whimsical Devrent Valley
Distance from Love Valley: 11 km (15 minutes)
It’s very hard to pick a favourite valley in Cappadocia but Devrent was definitely up there. All the landscape around the region is like something out of a fairytale but Devrent felt even more whimsical with its knobbly towering pillars and narrow sandy ridges.
It’s also one of the best places to escape the crowds. When you first arrive you’ll see some souvenir shops and clusters of people taking photos but you only have to walk for five minutes into the valley itself and you’ll likely be completely alone. We never saw another soul and we visited in the middle of the day.
The slope to get up and into the pathways between the rock formations is particularly slippery so I would recommend wearing shoes rather than flip flops or sandals. Walking the narrow pathways was an absolute delight and we spent about an hour here taking it all in.
There’s no set path so you can make your own way, just be really careful on any area with a drop off because lots of the sand was very crumbly and you wouldn’t want to take a fall.
Devrent Valley has no entrance fee.
Let your imagination run wild at Zelve Open Air Museum
Distance from Devrent Valley: 4.7km - 6 minutes drive
We’re not sure why, but most people skip Zelve in favour of heading straight to Pasabag. Their loss is your gain because we thought Zelve was much more impressive and we shared the experience with only a handful of others. This is Cappadocia how I imagined it when I first read about it over 15 years ago!
You’ll be able to explore churches and frescos that are over 1000 years old, the frescos for the most part are fairly damaged but the buildings are in pretty good condition and it’s a wonderful place to get lost in your own imagination.
There are lots of well maintained pathways taking you between the churches and to the outside of the monastery (which was closed to the public on our visit and didn’t look like it was opening anytime soon).
Unless you just want a very cursory glance we’d recommend allowing 1-1.5 hours to explore Zelve.
Entry to Zelve is 15 Lira (approx $3 USD).
Climb inside fairy chimneys at Pasabag
Distance from Zelve: 5.2km - 15 minute drive
We’re putting this itinerary together a little time after our Cappadocia trip and I’ve had time to reflect on Pasabag. In this post I said I was disappointed with Pasabag but now I realise that I let the crowds taint my view of the place itself.
The reality is that Pasabag is hugely crowded and not everyone treats the area how you hope that they would - we’re talking some serious litter bugs here - but that aside it is a really cool spot.
The formations are pretty incredible and being able to walk inside a fairy chimney was really memorable. It allows you to imagine what life might have been like to live in one of these spaces. You can also climb up to the second level of the chimney but I wasn’t feeling very brave that day and it looked a bit hairy.
The main chimneys that everyone looks at don’t take long to explore but you could spend longer walking further around the valley. I’d say allow 45 minutes or so to enjoy Pasabag at your leisure.
Pasabag has no entrance fee.
Red Valley Sunset
Distance from Pasabag: 7.3km - 20 minute drive
We recommend arriving at the Red Valley a couple of hours before sunset. Red Valley is not just one of the best sunset spots in Cappadocia but also a lovely place for a stroll with some truly mind blowing views. You only have to walk for around five minutes from the car park to find yourself in amongst some truly glorious mountain scenery.
You can actually walk all the way to Rose Valley which was our original intention but the paths are so steep, slippery and crumbly that we decided that would definitely not be happening.
We’d recommend going for a short stroll to immerse yourself in the tremendous views without the crowds but do wear shoes or go barefoot, most of the terrain is slippery and I had to take my flip flops off. Be very wary of going near any steep edges due to said crumbly cliffs.
Once you’ve had a stroll head back the way you came and grab the best seat in the house at Crazy Ali Cafe. This cafe is the reason we recommend coming so far before sunset, if you don’t, you won’t get one of the seats right on the cliff edge which offers the most amazing panoramic views.
The views from other seats will still be great but you will have other people obstructing them so it won’t give you that edge of the world feeling.
Crazy Ali’s serves food and drink, we went wild and ordered apple tea! : )
On driving into Red Valley there was a sign mentioning payment but there was no one there to collect or anywhere to leave money, so you may or may not have to pay to enter.
Day two - The Showstoppers
Hot Air Balloon Sunrise
If you have the budget to go up in a hot air balloon then that is definitely what we’d recommend, the whole experience looks magical. Unfortunately for us, it was a bit too expensive but we definitely made the most of getting up to watch the balloons many times.
If you don’t go up yourself and would like to watch them instead then our absolute favourite spot to head to is Sunset Hill - that’s not a typo, Sunset Hill is also a fabulous sunrise spot! In fact it’s one of our favourite sunrise spots in the world!
The view from Sunset Hill at sunrise
You’ll want to arrive around 45-60 minutes before sunrise in order to make sure you get a great spot with unobstructed views. Our favourite place was around a ten minute stroll along the path from the car park. We then walked maybe a metre off the path to the area you can see in the photo.
It’s an experience from the very beginning as you’ll first watch them filling the balloons, before they begin taking to the skies one by one as the sun slowly rises. To say this is a magical thing to watch is an understatement.
It is a truly jaw dropping sight as around a hundred balloons float through the air. Some went so extraordinarily close to the fairy chimneys that you could hear audible gasps! One even came close to where we were sitting, so close in fact that I had to run away!
Since we visited Sunset Hill they have now started charging an entrance fee of 3TL (approx US $5.25) which is collected on the road in. Whether or not they collect as early as you’ll be arriving is another matter.
Goreme Open Air Museum
Distance from Sunset Hill: 1.6 km (5 minutes)
After grabbing some breakfast we’d recommend heading straight to the UNESCO World Heritage Listed Goreme Open Air Museum for opening time (8.30am). It’s a really popular spot so arriving this early will allow you to experience it with fewer crowds.
It’s a wonderfully well preserved site and though it is only small there is a lot to see. You can wander in and out of the cave churches and admire the frescos. The site is probably the best preserved of all the cave churches in Cappadocia and it’s an absolute joy to explore.
Whatever you do don’t miss the Dark Church which has the most incredible frescos on the ceiling that we’ve ever seen. It was so much more ‘wow’ that we could possibly have imagined and worth far more than the extra 15 Lira (approx US $2.70) it costs to get in. It was the highlight of the whole site and one of our favourite spots in the entire region. No photos were allowed so you will have to see it with your own eyes!
The entrance fee for Goreme Open Air Museum is 75 Lira - approx US $10.70.
Hike the Rose Valley
Distance from Goreme Open Air Museum: 2.3 km (6 minutes)
The Rose Valley walk was by far our favourite in the whole of Cappadocia. The scenery is just incredible and walking amongst the deep pink cliffs is unmissable and one of the best things to do in Cappadocia. Rose Valley is only accessible by foot or on horse back so you don’t get any of the issues with ATV’s whizzing past and kicking up dust and disturbing the peace.
The walking track is also in really good condition and very rarely slippery so it is a completely difference experience to walking in the Red Valley.
We only saw a handful of other people during our entire time in the valley so for the most part it felt like we had one of Turkey’s most beautiful places all to ourselves.
It’s not a difficult walk, (although there are a few ups and downs) and there are lots of unusual rock formations and caves to explore along the way.
Be sure to stop at the cafe towards the end of the hike which had the most delicious fresh fruit juices - orange, grapefruit and pomegranate - as well as lots of comfy seats to relax in with sensational valley views.
The cafe is also right beside a church with some of the best preserved frescos we saw in Cappadocia. The entrance way to the church is a bit rickety but not difficult and definitely worth it.
If you manage to time the end of your walk to coincide with the late afternoon light you’ll see the cliffs turn an even deeper shade of pink.
The walk could easily be done in an hour but we’d recommend allowing more time to explore all the nooks and crannies and stop at the cafe and church.
Entrance to the Rose Valley is free. Finding the start of the trail isn’t easy, so click here to find the exact starting point. It’s a track off the road opposite a juice seller.
Uchisar Castle Sunset
Distance from Rose Valley: 6.8km (13 minutes)
Uchisar Castle sits high up in the valley with gorgeous panoramic views from the top. You’ll see fairy chimneys and jagged rocks galore as well as the snow-capped Mount Erciyes in the distance. The castle has been carved out of natural rock and whilst there’s not a lot to see inside, it’s still a great place to explore.
The best spot is of course the very top which you reach via a series of staircases and this is where you’ll find people congregating for sunset.
There’s not a lot of room at the top so you’d want to be there a little way before sun down to snag a spot. Even if it’s busy up there though you can always sit lower down and still get great views.
The slopes surrounding the castle are also spectacular and well worth a wander around.
Entrance to Uchisar Castle is 9 Lira (approx $1.50).
Day three - The hidden gems
Today’s itinerary will take you away from the towns of Goreme and Uchisar and out to some of the lesser visited spots in Cappadocia.
The drive once you get past Kaymakli gets particularly pretty. If you’re self driving you’ll find the roads are quiet and the driving easy.
Kaymakli underground city
Distance from Goreme: 25km - 30 minute drive
Cappadocia has several underground cities and we explored both Kaymakli and Derinkuyu. If you only want to do one (and they are fairly similar) we’d pick Kaymakli.
We had read that Derinkuyu was a lot quieter and more rustic, which is why we wanted to see it too, but on our visit it was just as busy as Kaymakli and not quite as interesting.
Prepare to stoop as you make your way around a series of underground tunnels which lead to various different places in the city. It’s fascinating to see how much of life was conducted so far underground.
It’s the best preserved underground city in Cappadocia and you’ll see everything from churches to wine cellars.
There are signs telling you which room is which and arrows to guide you through (lucky because there’s no way we would have found our way!) so you don’t technically need a guide. Having done it without a guide though I do think you’d get more out of the experience if you had one, there’s not a lot left in the tunnels so I think a guide would help bring it all to life.
We wouldn’t recommend Kaymakli if you’re very claustrophobic but it’s also not all crouching, when you come out into the rooms you can stand normally.
Entry is 50 Lira ($7.15 USD) and you can hire a guide at the entrance if you want to.
Keslik Monastery
Distance from Kaymakli: 27km - 30 minute drive
The Keslik Monastery is fairly off the beaten track and we explored this area without anyone else around for the most part which added to the atmosphere. Although there is little left there now it is still an interesting place to wander around and see how the monks used to live.
Our favourite part was the huge church which is on two levels and bigger than any other we saw in Cappadocia. Although no one part of the complex has wow factor, it’s the sort of place where the whole experience of exploring without any one else around and finding a quiet spot to sit and take in the views was really memorable.
It’s now looked after by a lovely Turkish family, which is another reason to visit as this friendly couple will invite you for a tea in the little garden before you leave.
Entry is 10 Lira ($1.40 USD).
Lunch at the Apple Tree Garden
Just before the entry fee is paid for Soganli Valley you’ll see the Apple Tree Garden restaurant on the left. We had one of the most delicious meals in Turkey at this sweet little restaurant, set - you guessed it - in a garden full of apple trees. You can pick a shady spot under a tree and delight in some legendary Turkish hospitality.
Before our mains came (I had a veggie casserole/stew - so good I wish I took the recipe!) a warm wheel of bread and three different homemade cheeses came out. After the meal fresh yoghurt and local honey was served, along with the obligatory cup of Turkish tea (which is free of charge). The whole meal was delicious and we were the only guests so maybe we got doted on a little more than if it were busy but either way, the food alone is worth the stop.
Soganli Valley
Distance from Keslik Monastery: 31km - 30 minute drive
Soganli Valley was one of my favourite places in Cappadocia. There are an incredible number of cave churches set in the cliffs of a large valley and you can explore to your hearts content.
Again, we didn’t see any other travellers out this way, in fact, we didn’t see anyone at all. We paid our entry fee and didn’t see anyone again until we got back on the road! I’m not sure how that’s possible when there’s so much to see!
Most of the cave paintings are in quite a sorry state - a shame because there were some beautiful ones here - but nonetheless they are incredibly atmospheric.
The churches tend to be in clusters spread out across the valley and you can hike or drive between them. The hike would be stunning but as it was raining we decided to drive instead. You can drive right up to all but a couple -Hidden and Domed church - which require an easy ten minute stroll.
We visited seven churches and didn’t see them all, so I’d allowed a couple of hours in the valley and longer if you’re hiking.
Our favourites were the Church with Deer, Hidden Church, Domed Church and the Church with Buckle (which is just outside the fee zone).
Entrance to the valley costs 3 Lira (approx 50c USD) and this includes entrance to all churches.
Where to stay in Cappadocia
Getting your head around the hundreds of places to stay in Cappadocia can be hard, so we’ve got a couple of suggestions below.
Local Cave House - Goreme
Instagrammer’s favourite and truly unique, Local Cave House has it all. As the name suggests, all the rooms are caves in a fairy chimney, meaning you will have a quintessential Cappadocian experience.
The rooms are nicely furnished with local touches and despite being in the middle of Goreme, it is really quiet.
There’s a picturesque pool for when it gets hot outside and the views from here are spectacular (but they aren’t of the balloons). It’s also one of the best value hotels in the whole area.
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Duven Hotel - Uchisar
Duven House flies under the radar of most travellers, which means this gem is also lovely and quiet. Although it isn’t a cave hotel, Duven makes up for this with a spectacular view of Uchisar Castle which is only 50 metres away!
The rooms are big, comfortable and come with a tasty breakfast included, making it superb value.
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Are you planning a trip to Cappadocia? What would be at the top of your Cappadocia itinerary? Let us know in the comments below!
