Yes, I attempted the Angels Landing hike and failed. Not only that, I foolhardily tried it in the winter. It was a real tail between my legs retreat from a hike I desperately wanted to do, but couldn’t finish when it came to it.

Anyone who has read our blog will know that we’ve done a lot of hiking around the world. We crossed narrow ridgelines on the top of mountains, scrambled up very steep and rocky hikes, and faced just about as much as you can do without going into rock climbing territory. We’d been wanting to hike this trail for years, and just like almost everyone else, Angels Landing was at the top of our Zion itinerary.

But Angels Landing in winter is on another level.

We’d started the trail in very wintery conditions. Zion had received six inches of snow in the last few days (a rarity for this part of Utah) and the -10C overnight temperatures meant that not only had it stayed, but any that had been trampled on had turned to ice. This should have been a good enough sign to turn back or stop at Scout Lookout, which is what Cat did….

Angels Landing in winter

Since attempting Angels Landing in winter, we tried again in the fall and am happy to say we made it the whole way and it became one of our favourite hikes in Utah.

You can read an account for non-snowy and far more normal conditions in our article dedicated to things you need to know before taking on the Angels Landing hike. It’s also a handy comparison (especially with the photos) between how different this trail can be in the winter.

The start of the trail

The start of the trail was completely fine in winter, even when there had been heavy snow. The first set of switchbacks had little snow or ice, primarily from the amount of people on the trail who had turned it into slush- it was winter, but I’d estimate there were still 30+ people on the trail per hour.

The track heads uphill, but wasn’t anything to really worry about. Occasionally you can hear a bit of crumbling ice fall down the cliff but as long as you keep an eye out for icicles it isn’t too bad.

The views are spectacular right from the start and get better the higher up you go. From each turn you see Zion Canyon in all its glory: the deep red speckled with white from the fresh snow. Anywhere else, this part of the trail alone would be reason enough to take on this hike.

Then the switchbacks took a turn into a canyon and the compacted snow began. We had our yak tracks on, so this wasn’t a problem. We skipped through the beautiful, narrow pathway and up to the next set of switchbacks, Walters Wiggles. Despite the footfall, this was still all under compact snow, which made the path more interesting without being difficult.

It wasn’t long before we got to Scout Lookout and saw the view, one of the most popular photography spots on the trail.

Getting to the start of Angels Landing

The view from Scout Lookout is breathtaking. You can see why the final part of the trail is called Angels Landing as you feel like you’re on top of the world, a place where the next stop is the heavens above. The drops are steep in every direction, but the lookout is nice and wide and not in the least bit precarious.

However, Angels Landing itself looked like something you’d never dream of climbing up. This was an immensely steep and narrow rock with a tiny spine you could climb on. The snow covered so much of the rock that it was impossible to tell where the cliff ended and the 1000 foot drop began. Getting up would be hard, getting down looked suicidal.

*Angels Landing in winter looks stunning*

There were signs saying that you shouldn’t do this trail if there is rain, wind, snow or ice - two of which we had and a gentle breeze that could have turned into wind. We asked people who were coming back about the conditions.

Some people had made it, but the majority went so far and turned around. One person I spoke to got within 100 yards of the summit and turned around, showing incredible will to control their summit fever. They said the trail was scary enough, but the end was like climbing up a wall of ice: slippery, precarious and just not worth the danger.

A couple had completed the trail, saying that “you need to work hard to dig you hands through the snow to grab the rocks underneath and scramble on all fours” and later described it as one of the scariest things they’d ever done.

Another guy said he got to the top, but regretted it as he frequently saw his life flash before his eyes. We’d never seen anyone get to the end of a hike without injury or damage and regret it like these people had. Suffice to say, Angels Landing has a psychological effect even on those who make it to the summit!

Attempting the start of Angels Landing

Most people would heed the warnings, decide it isn’t worth it and turn around. After all, it’s just a hiking trail, so why risk it? However, I wanted to see it for myself. In Australia, people regularly would say something was really dodgy and then I’d find that they were going over the top and that the track was fine.

I walked towards the chains, ignored the “7 people have died here since 2004” sign and proceeded to see what the fuss was about.

*The start of the chains on Angels Landing in winter*

In normal conditions the path is narrow and rocky, giving you little room to pass anyone in the other direction. I could semi-deal with this, but the snow and ice had made it a very different beast.

You couldn’t see what was beneath the fresh snow, so you had to stick to the footprints on the compacted snow that was only about 30cm wide. This was also on a slope that was high by the cliffside and dropped off steeply by the cliff edge, slanting towards the drop. It started to look ridiculous.

*Heavy snow on the Angels Landing trail*

In these conditions, people were literally falling up the path. Those on the way down were no longer upright and were almost sitting down and praying the chain would hold.

The first section was steep, but you could cling on to the chain and push upwards. Then the track hugged the side of the cliff and became narrow, slippery and even more precarious. This was all ok, until the chain stopped and you saw this.

*The end of the first set of chains on Angels Landing in winter*

The photo probably doesn’t do justice, but this paralysed a lot of people. It was like a Mexican Stand-off where everyone was looking to the other to go first. There were no steps, just a steep, slippery wall of ice to somehow claw your way up. It was no exaggeration that one slip and you were going off the side of the cliff.

It is no joke, that I planned my route by the ability to try to aim for a bush to stop my fall if I slipped - not a great idea when you see how fragile desert plants are.

After crossing this horrific section, I reached a relatively placid bit. The track was flat and the chains were back, but incredibly narrow and the steps had turned to pure ice. Another slip and you were gone again. I prayed not to have to pass anyone and was in luck.

Soon I came across this lookout.

*The Angels Landing spine under heavy snow*

To continue or not?

At this point my nerves was shot. I’d slipped and slided and done a lot of the track on all fours and on my backside. It felt like an ordeal. It was only now that I realised, I’d just done the easy part!

The next part was where things became hellish. The track narrowed, became a lot steeper, there were fewer chained sections and there was less compacted snow as fewer people had attempted it. It looked like the last view I’d ever have.

I stayed there for 10 minutes, trying to see how others fared. I didn’t want to turn around, knowing I was only a short distance from the end, but my legs weren’t moving. I don’t get vertigo, and have a good head for heights, but this sight made me feel pretty sick.

I had no choice, I would head back. This alone was scary enough, but made worse by only semi-completing the hike. The track back was even scarier than the way there. The path was primarily downhill, making things far more precarious.

The narrow paths were bad, but that non-chained section was awful. It felt like gambling, sliding downwards hoping you don’t gather momentum and that you end up towards the path (or a bush) rather than off the edge.

But it wasn’t over. Those chains that looked ok on the way up - deadly on the way down. Suddenly you were sitting down, but the chain was way above your reach. Scrambling down rocks in the dry might be nervy, down the rocks in ice and snow was enough to make me freak out. Slipping was inevitable, but I aimed to slip in the right direction.

After 45 minutes, I had only walked 200 metres in each direction, my nerves frayed and wondering why I had done it at all.

Should you do the Angels Landing hike in snow or ice?

The short answer in my opinion is no. In snow and ice, we felt the trail should have been closed, although I suppose it should be easy to make the decision for yourself when you see it!

The views from Scout Lookout and the West Rim trail are amazing, so if you’re visiting in snow or icy conditions then they make a great and safe alternative to Angels Landing itself.

*The views from the much safer West Rim Trail!*

However, I would have liked to have completed it and finished the hike. It would have been unlike any hike I’d ever done and to have scrambled up the top would have been an achievement. I didn’t know at the time, but I would be back six months later to finally complete it. It’s safe to say I found it A LOT easier!

At the time, I consoled myself with the snow covered canyon views that rarely happen in Zion. There are plenty of incredible hikes and views in this stunning national park, so if you don’t fancy Angels Landing, there will be plenty of places where you will still be blown away.

10 minutes later we were up at the top of the West Rim trail, enjoying the stunning views and landscape and wondered why I had even attempted a hike which was so close to a near death experience.

Packing suggestions for Zion

Having the right gear can make a huge difference in zion, especially in the winter. Here’s what we packed for our trip and we highly recommend you bringing:

Yak Trax: A game changer for hiking in the snow. Check them out on REI or Amazon
Icebreaker Base Layer: What we always wear in the winter and makes a huge difference for keeping warm. Check out on REI or Amazon
Down Jacket: Essential for keeping warm: Check out REI or Amazon
Merino Wool Socks: The best way to keep your feet warm. Check out REI or Amazon
Trekking poles: We’ve used Black Diamond for years as they are light, solid and durable. Check out REI or Amazon.
Day Pack: Osprey Talon 22 (we’ve owned this for years). Check on Amazon, REI or direct with Osprey
Hiking Boots: Merrell Moab (for men and women). We’ve both used these for over three years and they just keep going. Check them out on REI or Amazon
Reusable water bottle: To avoid single-use plastic. Check then out on REI or Amazon

Where to stay in Zion

Cable Mountain Lodge

Booking.com

When it comes to staying in Zion, the majority of accommodation is concentrated in the nearby village of Springdale. We stayed at Cable Mountain Lodge and absolutely loved it.

The lodge is literally steps away from the entrance to the park and the Visitor Centre, meaning you won’t lose any time driving to and from the park!

The rooms here are beautiful, comfortable and have stunning views of the Watchman and Zion Canyon.

Many rooms also come with kitchenettes which allows you to self cater which was a massive bonus for us. It was the perfect place to relax after a long day covering many of the best Zion National Park hikes.

There’s a pool and hot tub with great views. The pool wasn’t open on our visit as it is outdoors but we definitely made use of the outdoor hot tub - even when it was snowing!

Check the latest prices on:

Booking.com

Hotels.com

Tripadvisor

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